Port Royal

Port Royal Review

Just south of Kingston, Port Royal was called "the wickedest city in Christendom" until an earthquake tumbled much of it into the sea in 1692. The spirits of Henry Morgan and other buccaneers add energy to what remains. The proudest possession of St. Peter's Church, rebuilt in 1726 to replace Christ's Church, is a silver communion set said to have been donated by Morgan himself (who probably obtained it during a raid on Panama).

A ferry from the square in downtown Kingston goes to Port Royal at least twice a day, but most visitors arrive by road, continuing past the airport to this small community. If you drive out to Port Royal from Kingston, you pass several other sights, including remains of old forts virtually overgrown with vegetation, an old naval cemetery (which has some intriguing headstones), and a monument commemorating Jamaica's first coconut tree, planted in 1863 (there's no tree there now, just plenty of cactus and scrub brush). You can no longer down rum in Port Royal's legendary 40 taverns, but a few small bars remain in operation.

Fort Charles. You can explore the remnants of Fort Charles, once the city's largest garrison. Built in 1662, this is the oldest surviving structure from the British occupation. On the grounds you can find an old artillery storehouse, called Giddy House, which gained its name after being tilted by the earthquake of 1907. Locals say its slant makes you dizzy. The Fort Charles Maritime Museum is housed in what was once the headquarters for the British Royal Navy. Admiral Horatio Nelson served as a naval lieutenant here in 1779. The museum features a re-creation of Nelson's private quarters, as well as other artifacts from the era, including models of various sailing vessels. Fort Charles is located just past Norman Manley International Airport. Fort Charles, Port Royal. 876/967-8438. $10. 9-4.45.

St. Peter's Church. Built in 1725 after the previous church was swept into the sea, St. Peter's Church was constructed by Lewis Galdy, a survivor of the 1692 earthquake. His tombstone in the church cemetery describes how "he was swallowed up in the Great Earthquake in the year 1692 and by the providence of God was by another shock thrown into the sea and miraculously saved by swimming until a boat took him up. Beloved by all and much lamented at his Death". The modest church's other treasures include an ornate organ loft, a silver candelabra, and a silver communion service that was donated, according to legend, by the notorious pirate Henry Morgan. Church St. No phone. Free. Daily 9-5.