Port Antonio

The North Coast Highway construction project that has finally improved the road from Negril all the way to Ocho Rios has finally resulted in a smoother connection between Ocho Rios and Port Antonio. Although still a long drive, it's more direct than the overland road from Kingston through the Blue Mountains, a road that received substantial damage from Hurricane Gustave in 2008 (which was only a tropical storm when it slammed into the eastern end of Jamaica, killing 11 and causing widespread destruction). Flying from Montego Bay or Kingston is another option, though Port Antonio's small airport is served only by expensive charter flights.

The best way to reach Port Antonio is by yacht—just as swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn did in the 1940s. Even if you're not among the lucky few who arrive via the high seas, you're likely to spend a good deal of time on the water. After all, Port Antonio is home to Jamaica's best marina. Anglers are attracted by the region's excellent deep-sea fishing. Dolphin (the delectable fish, not the lovable mammal) is the likely catch here, along with tuna, kingfish, and wahoo. Each October, the weeklong Blue Marlin Tournament draws crowds from around the world.

Instead of fish, you'll find that pork, chicken, and goat take center stage at Boston Beach, east of Port Antonio. This small area was the birthplace of modern jerk, dating back to the 1930s when the first roadside (locally known as wayside) stands first began offering fiery jerk. Today about half a dozen jerk stands tempt diners with modestly priced meals. Jerk may have spread throughout the island, but many aficionados still return to Boston Beach for a taste of the "real thing."