Jamaica

"Do you see the ackee?" We were strolling the banks of the Black River on Jamaica's south coast when we heard the call of a man from a nearby car. He gestured up at an ordinary-looking tree we were near. Between its green leaves peeked small, red fruit, bursting open to reveal large, black seeds like eyes looking out at us. "That's ackee," he said. "We make our national dish from that fruit. You must try some while you are here!"

Jamaicans define enthusiasm. Whether the topic is ackee or dominoes, politics or Carnival, the spirit of this island comes out in every interaction. Although the island is well known for its tropical beauty, reggae music, and cuisine, you may find that your interactions with local residents are what you truly remember.

The island is rich in beauty, but a quick look around reveals widespread poverty and a land where the disparity between the lives of the resort guests and the resort employees is often staggering. Where vacationers opt to make their Jamaican home away from home depends on factors ranging from the length of their vacation to personal interests. With its direct air connections to many cities in the United States, Montego Bay (or MoBay) is favored by Americans taking short trips; many properties are just minutes from the airport. Two hours east of the airport lies Ocho Rios (often just "Ochi"), a lush destination that's favored by honeymooners for its tropical beauty and myriad couples-only resorts. Ocho Rios is also a popular cruise port and where you can find one of the island's most recognizable attractions: the stair-step Dunn's River falls, which invites travelers to climb in daisy-chain fashion, hand-in-hand behind a sure-footed guide.

East of Ocho Rios, Port Antonio is considered the most beautiful, untouched area of Jamaica, a hideaway for the rich and famous since Errol Flynn first lived there.

More than an hour west of MoBay lies Negril, once a hippie haven and now a growing destination that still hangs on to its laid-back roots despite the addition of several expansive all-inclusive resorts in recent years.

The south coast is more attractive to those travelers looking for funky fun in small, one-of-a-kind resorts and an atmosphere that encourages them to get out and mingle in the community, whether that means a game of dominoes in a local rum shop or a bicycle trip to buy the day's catch from local fisherman. The beaches here don't have the white-sand beauty of their northern cousins, but this area is uncrowded and still mostly undiscovered.

Jamaica's capital city, Kingston, is a sharp contrast to the beach destinations. The largest English-speaking city in the western hemisphere south of Miami (with some 800,000 residents), this sprawling metropolis is primarily visited by business travelers or by those who want to learn more about the cultural side of Jamaica, thanks to its numerous galleries, theaters, and cultural programs. If you really want to understand Jamaica, you can't ignore Kingston.

Less »