Parque Nacional Jaragua

Parque Nacional Jaragua Review

Much of the Pedernales region—namely Parque Nacional Jaragua and Parque Nacional Bahoruco—has been declared a Global Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO because of its vast and diverse habitats (a biosphere is an area of the planet where unique forms of earth, water, air, plants, and animals coexist). Parque Nacional Jaragua is one of three national parks in this region (the third is Lago Enriquillo). The park is named after a famous Taino chief Jaragua, who defied the Spanish for more than a decade. (If you go on a guided trip, you can see some Taino cave drawings.) Many scientists and hobbyists come here regularly for bird-watching, butterfly-watching, and even palm- (tree) watching. It's a place where you might spot flamingos, iguanas, and crocodiles, among other endemic, protected species in the surrounding lakes, mountains, rivers, and pristine beaches.

From Barahona to the park, you'll drive nearly 3 hours; from the small hotels in the Bahoruco/La Cienega area 2½ hours; from Los Patos 2 hours. (One older Italian couple went from Los Patos with two motoconchos and found the ride exhilarating, the coastal scenery breathtaking)

There is now one decent hotel in Pedernales, where you can stay if traveling independently. It can beat getting up at dawn to make the drive. The park is a straight shot down Highway 44, the coastal road, from either Barahona or Pedernales. There's good signage for the entrance to the park as well as Laguna de Oviedo, about 1½ mi (3 km) from the little town of Oviedo. If you have to choose just one ecotour, this might be the best.

The park occupies the southern part of the Pedernales Peninsula, with its stark and striking contrasts of seascapes and arid desert-like terrain, including a thorn forest, and there are marine turtles and the greatest variety of bird species on the island of Hispaniola. The flocks of pink flamingos that roam the shores of the Laguna de Oviedo on their spindly legs are the most photographed.

The park is a vast area of 1,500 square km (579 square mi), and to reach the interior you must have a strong, four-wheel-drive vehicle and a means of communication should you get stuck or break down. Don't attempt this trip on your own without the help of a seasoned guide or tour company.

When you arrive at the park's entrance, you'll be greeted by guides, who will direct you to parking and will line you up to get the boat tour to Laguna de Oveido, which takes about 3 hours. The cost of the boat trip is the same whether you have 2 people or 8, so it's cost-effective to buddy up with strangers. If you have time, climb the tower for a view of the shallow, brackish lagoon. It's best to arrive in the morning, between 8 and 9 am, before the wind gets up. The lagoon is so shallow that once you reach the mangroves, the boatman has to turn off the motor and push the boat. It makes a wonderful way to quietly approach the flamingos and the roseate spoonbills, the pelicans, egrets, and frigate birds. Tours will take you to visit the flamingo colony, a couple of islets, and a cave with Taino petroglyphs. The birds are more active at dawn, which means it's easier for you if you spend the night in Pedernales. The trip can include the south end of the lagoon, where the endemic iguana Ricordi, only found on Hispaniola, can be seen. (Feed them only leaves, not anything else.) It's hot here, so bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat.

The Alcoa Road, indicated by a park sign on the right, is one of the entrance points for the 800 square-km, mostly mountainous National Park Sierra de Bahoruco. The intersection is actually about 10 km (6 mi) before the town of Pedernales. The road leads up to a pine forest and the site of former bauxite mines. The view from the Hoyo de Pelempito of a wide rift valley is justly famous. The other entrance to the Sierra Park is on the north side, passing through Duverge on the south side of Lago Enriquillo, to Puerto Encondidio. This dusty road is also the entrance to Kate Wallace's camp. You must have a strong four-wheel drive to get to see the wild orchids (some 166 species) and 49 species of birds (including the Hispaniolan parrots) in the pine forests of this interior park. It's definitely not advisable to do it on your own. Wallace's Tody Tours is one of the few recommendable alternatives.

At this writing, ECO-Tour of Barahona and Tody Tours offer excursions here, but two local guides' associations assisted by Peace Corps volunteers are also a possibility if you really want to go it alone.