Behind the soft, Caribbean turquoise facade you'll find a very un-typical B&B, not to mention white—almost everywhere: the reception and lounge, the stark wooden staircase, the grillwork on the French doors; it's breathtaking, actually, with the dark green plants offering the only contrast. New on the scene, Coco's, which is a handsome renovation of a circa-1920s private home, has developed a soul, and the silver-and-gold furnishings give it a hint of Miami glitz as well. It's given personality by the young, charismatic owners, Elizabeth and her husband Eduardo, who is also the Zone's most capable bartender. Pros: Amazingly quiet for the Zona Colonial, opposite the picturesque Plaza Pellerano Castro, rooftop terrace with Balinese sunbeds where you can wave to the cruise ships. Cons: Not steeped in creature comforts, bathrooms are small, as are two front rooms.
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