Named after the Bogey and Bergman flick, this little hotel is just as much a crossroads for intriguing international visitor as Rick's Bar Americain. Your fellow guests might be a New York basketball trainer or a globetrotter from Finland. Susanna Knapp, a charming Swiss woman, transformed this former doctor's home into a fine little inn. The main building houses the reception and dining area, while two guesthouses each have three Spartan but colorful, pristine rooms (four have three beds). All are set amid palm and almond tree orchards. Pathways lead to the cliffs and down steep steps to the virgin, private beach. You can expect a stimulating breakfast (RD$200 extra, and worth it); Susanna sets a lovely table strewn with bougainvillea and offers a most appealing table d' hôte for dinner that fosters camaraderie. Dinner possibilities may be fresh-caught fish and shellfish, a fish soup with coconut, or even Dominican Sancocho. Occasionally, Susanna takes nonguests for dinner (reservation only) for the steal of RD$400 to RD$800 (beg for a reservation!). Pros: This is an outpost of civility, excellent value and refinements for the price, food is among the area's finest. Cons: Lots of "nots" (no phones, TV, a/c, pool, or even credit cards), the only access is by an unpaved road, car a must to stay here.
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