Lago Enriquillo

Lago Enriquillo Review

The largest lake in the Antilles is on an arid plain outlined by craggy mountains near the Haitian border. The saltwater lake was once the lowest point in the Antilles: 114 feet below sea level. (The lake's depth and size has risen dramatically due to storms and rainfall, and scientists and ecologists are wondering just how much more its ecosystem will change.) It encircles wild, arid, and thorny islands that serve as sanctuaries for such exotic birds and reptiles as flamingos, iguanas, and previously the indigenous American crocodile, which once numbered close to 500 (there are many fewer now). It's an eerie place, where dead trees poke up from the salty water. Your best chance of seeing a croc is at dawn, during the dry season between January and June, but it's rare in the best of times. Flamingo sightings are more likely during their migration season, from April to July; after that, the lake level rises, and the flamingos decamp to the Bahamas.

Isla Cabritos Parque Nacional is a small island within Lago Enriquillo that is the habitat for hundreds of iguanas, and some of their larger cousins, American crocodiles. The word cabritos means little goats, and they roam the island, as do burros (small donkeys). You may see the droppings, but you will rarely see the goats or burros on a visit. Boats to the island leave from the national park dock in the town of Descubierta. The only facility on the island is a little green, wooden casita, where the island's history, the flora, and the wildlife are explained in detail in Spanish and in graphics. For independent travelers, a boat trip to the island is RD$3,500 (about $100), regardless of the size of the group. If you can wait for a sizable group, the price can be reduced to about $10 per person. The trip to the island takes an hour; the best time to pull together a group is in the morning—whatever size the group, be it 2 persons or 15. But you might have to wait some time for a group to come together. ECO-Tour Barahona runs organized trips to the island as well, which will allow you to book ahead. There is shade and a couple of picnic tables on the island, but the island itself can be monstrously hot. Bring sunglasses, sunscreen, a long-sleeve shirt, insect repellent, and closed-toe shoes (there are a lot of burrs and cacti) for your trip. Neither the national park nor Isla Cabritos has restrooms. Facilities can be found nearby, in the town of Descubierta, but bring your own toilet paper. The Association of Eco-Tourism Guides of Lago Enriquillo offers information on visiting the lake on its Web site. Hwy. 48, 3 km (1.8 mi) east of Descubierta, on northwestern shore of Lago Enriquillo, 84000. 809/816-7441. www.lagoenriquilloguides.com. US$3. Daily 8-5.