Samaná Peninsula

"One of the authors of the King James Bible traveled the Caribbean, and I often think that it was a place like Samaná that was on his mind when he sat down to pen the Eden chapters. For Eden it was, a blessed meridian where mar and sol and green have forged their union."—Junot Díaz, The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao

You need only squint a bit in the sun to imagine a tropical paradise of Biblical proportions—a dramatically beautiful peninsula of coconut trees stretching into the sea like an island unto itself. It's something of a microcosm of the Dominican Republic: here you'll see poverty and fancy resorts, good and bad (and really bad) roads, verdant mountainsides, tropical forests, tiny villages lined with streetside fruit vendors, secluded beaches, and the radiant warmth of the Dominican people.

The green mountains teem with coconut trees and dramatic vistas of sea, full of hidden beaches reachable only on foot or by sea, protected coves, and undeveloped bays. There are also a number of all-inclusive resorts that claim territory to themselves, as well as quaint and low-key beachfront hotels and restaurants where you can find complete relaxation and tranquillity. Samaná (pronounced sah-mah-NAH) is the name of both the peninsula and its biggest town, as well as the bay to the south. It's worth noting that to locals, Samaná denotes only the biggest town, Santa Barbara de Samaná, which makes a great departure point for whale-watching or an excursion to Los Haitises park across the bay. The bay is home to some of the world's best whale-watching from mid-January to late March. If you're here during that time, don't miss it.

A visit to Samaná is really about two things: exploring its preserved natural wonders and relaxing at a small beachfront hotel. The latter is most readily accomplished in Las Terrenas, the only true tourist center, where you can find picturesque restaurants, accommodations of all types, and great beaches. Reach it by taking a winding road through the mountains from the town of Sánchez. At Las Terrenas you can enjoy peaceful playas, take advantage of the vibrant nightlife (including a casino), and make all your plans for expeditions on the peninsula. The other pleasures are solitary—quiet beaches, the massive national park Los Haitises, and water sports and hiking.

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