Spanish civilization in the New World began in Santo Domingo's 12-block Zona Colonial. As you stroll its narrow streets, it's easy to imagine this old city as it was when the likes of Columbus, Cortés, and Ponce de León walked the cobblestones, pirates sailed in and out, and colonists were settling themselves. Tourist brochures tout that "history comes alive here" -- a surprisingly truthful statement. Every Thursday to Sunday night at 8:30, a typical folklorico show is staged at Parque Colón and Plaza Espana. During the Christmas holidays there is an artisans fair and live music concerts. Ask about other cultural events.

A fun horse and carriage ride throughout the Zone costs $20 for an hour. The steeds are no thoroughbreds, but they clip right along, though any commentary will be in Spanish. You can also negotiate to use them as a taxi, say to go down to the Malecón. The drivers usually hang out in front of the Sofitel Nicolas de Ovando. History buffs will want to spend a day exploring the many "firsts" of our continent. You can get a free walking-tour map and brochures in English at the Secretaria de Estado de Turismo office at Parque Colón (Columbus Park), where you may be approached by freelance, English-speaking guides, who will want to make it all come alive for you. They'll work enthusiastically for $20 an hour for four persons. Do wear comfortable shoes.

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