Wotten Waven is no thriving metropolis. In fact, the hamlet at the north end of the Roseau Valley is minuscule. But don't miss it. Hidden in its bush are sulfur-enriched, burping waters, fumaroles, and cascades. A few local entrepreneurs have made it a spa destination. Now, if you are thinking big-time pampering, think again. It is strictly BYOT (bring your own towel). There are three outdoor "spas." Each is unique. Tia's Bamboo Cottages are perched on a hill. The springs are at the bottom by the river. Don't want to dip? Well, the owner's preteen daughters at TiWen Glo Cho will take you on a tour down a flowered-bordered path to lush gardens, a small menagerie of native wildlife, and a waterfall. TiWen Glo Cho's state-of-the-art spa is four old-fashioned claw-foot bathtubs. Mineral water is jerry-rigged into them via a series of bamboo poles. Screw's Sulphur Spa is the most posh. It offers mud packs and wraps plus three pools, each a different temperature and a different depth. Screw, and that is his name, doesn't let you leave without giving you fresh juice or fruit. Dominica's spas are a far reach from the Golden Door, but then again, that is the charm.