Even in its decline, Niquero, the area hub, is beautiful. The local Communist Party headquarters is in a stone mansion, seemingly immune to the decay affecting the French-style plantation houses, playful Victorian homes, and Spanish colonial buildings that surround it. The road to Playa las Coloradas heads straight through town, passing some of these structures. (Although there are a restaurant and small bungalows for rent here, operating hours are sporadic, especially in the off-season. Your best bet is to spend the night in Manzanillo.