Central Cuba Restaurants

As is true all over Cuba, puerco (pork)—prepared the usual variety of ways—figures largely on the region's menus. Carne de res (beef) is also common, as are pollo (chicken) and cordero (lamb). Entrées often come with the traditional arroz congrí (fried white rice with beans and pork), which is sometimes called moros y cristianos (Moors and Christians). Restaurants in coastal cities and resorts have plenty of seafood on their menus, especially langosta (lobster), which abound in the reefs. Because commercial fishing is controlled by the government, however, seafood isn't always as fresh as you might think, even on the coast.

Restaurants are scarce outside Trinidad and Cienfuegos, though every town has a few paladares (private eateries), and many casas particulares (Cuban homes whose owners have been allowed to rent out rooms) have permits to serve food. Most large beach resorts are all-inclusive, but food quality varies, especially at their buffet restaurants. Because all-inclusiveness confines most beach visitors to eating in their resorts, destinations such as Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo have not developed much of a dining scene.

Payment, tipping and reservations. Reservations are rarely necessary, and though there's no tipping policy per se, most travelers feel better if they tip as many people as possible—in and out of restaurants—as Cubans earn paltry wages. You'll be expected to pay in convertible pesos, but credit cards are accepted in all government restaurants and hotels, though never in paladares.

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  • 1. La Campana de Toledo

    $$

    In a restored 18th-century house overlooking the timeless Plaza de San Juan de Dios, this restaurant was named for the campana (bell) that hangs in its courtyard, which was brought to Camagüey from Toledo, Spain, by a merchant who lived here. Seating is either in the courtyard, which is shaded by trees and decorated with the tinajones symbolic of Camagüey, or in the front of the house, with a view of the plaza. The Cuban dishes include boliche mechado (roast tenderloin stuffed with bacon and served in a light sauce), a specialty here; all come with arroz congrí (rice and black beans).

    Plaza San Juan de Dios 18, Camagüey, Camagüey, Cuba
    3229–6812

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 2. La Cueva del Camarón

    $$

    One of the smaller mansions in Punta Gorda houses this pleasant seafood restaurant. Its bright interior—full of shiny marble, colorful tiles, and carved hardwoods—makes it an elegant place to dine, and the waterfront terrace in back is a great spot for lunch. The menu is strong on seafood, with dishes ranging from pescado al camarón (fish fillets in a white shrimp sauce) to a grillada mixta (mixed grill) that contains lobster, fish, and prawns.

    Av. 2 y Calle 37, Cienfuegos, Cienfuegos, 55100, Cuba
    4355–1128

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Restaurante La Alfonsina

    $$

    At the end of a long dock, this simple restaurant under a thatched roof has the best views in town, not to mention the best ventilation. Though it belongs to the Club Santa Lucía hotel, it's open to guests from other hotels, and it is one of the few places in Cuba that has live lobster. The menu includes an array of seafood dishes, but the langosta, which is prepared a number of ways, is your best bet.

    Playa Santa Lucía, Camagüey, Cuba
    3236–5284

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential, No credit cards
  • 4. Restaurante Manaca

    $$

    The Manaca Iznaga family's former manor house is now occupied by a restaurant. The building's ochre walls, square columns, wood-beam ceiling, and terra-cotta floors lend considerable colonial ambience. There's an old sugar mill out back, and scattered on the lawn in front are the cauldrons used to boil down molasses. Lunches are usually accompanied by the music of an excellent little band. The specialty is puntas de cerdo a la Iznaga (strips of pork loin in a tomato-vegetable sauce), but the menu includes everything from fresh seafood to grilled chicken.

    Sancti Spíritus, Cuba
    4199--7241

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner, No credit cards
  • 5. Restaurante Mesón de la Plaza

    $$

    This refurbished 19th-century building overlooks Plaza Serafín Sánchez and the porticos of the colonial buildings that surround it. It's an impressive edifice, with large, arched doorways. Seating is at sturdy wooden tables, a couple of which have views of the Iglesia Parroquial Mayor. The menu is traditional Cuban with a few twists, such as garbanzo mesonero (garbanzo and pork soup) and ternero a la villa (veal stewed in a clay pot).

    Calle Máximo Gómez 34, Sancti Spíritus, Sancti Spíritus, 60100, Cuba
    4132–8546

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
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