The Lighthouse

The Lighthouse Review

The nonworking, conical, white-stucco lighthouse surrounded by fluttering flags serves as a beacon for hungry East End explorers. The interior replicates a yacht: polished hardwood floors, ship's lanterns, mosaic hurricane lamps, steering wheels, marine artworks, portholes, and waiters in crew's garb with chevrons. Most tables afford sweeping sea vistas, but prize romantic seating is on the little deck. Shipshape starters include Miss Nell's red conch chowder (she lives in the pink house behind the restaurant) or flash-fried calamari with shaved onions and sweet chili dip. Photo-shoot-worthy entrées (such as spice-rubbed salmon with roasted corn salsa and plantains drizzled with red pepper coulis) sing with color and flavor. Carnivores can devour braised veal shank with almond polenta or porcini-dusted chicken breast with rosemary-Marsala sauce. Vegetarians will delight in the curries, tofu stir-fries, and pastas. Save room for desserts, including the tropical cheesecake. The comprehensive wine list extends to a superb postprandial selection of liqueurs, aged rums, ports, and grappas. The gift shop offers lovely jewelry and handmade ceramic lighthouses.