This cozy oenophile's den may offer a lineup of 350-plus wines spanning Australia to Austria, but it's utterly unstuffy (conveyed by murals of reveling diners and quotes stenciled everywhere, such as "What I like to drink most is wine that belongs to others," -Diogenes). Chef-owner Keith Griffin promises "no sunsets, no fish feeding, it's all about the food." In other words, no gimmickry, though his constantly changing menu is a mischievous mélange of influences and ingredients. Accents alone, from compotes to coulis, include chili-caramel dip (for crispy sesame-coconut shrimp), lime beurre blanc (for grilled red snapper), and wasabi-soy sauce (for tea-cured yellowfin tuna tataki with toasted sesame-wakame salad). He'll fearlessly blacken, spice-rub, grill, deglaze, braise, stir-fry, barbecue, smoke, and poach, often delighting in unorthodox pairings that titillate every set of taste buds. Best of all, Griffin believes in sharing, with lavish happy hour specials; all-you-can-eat-and-drink Champagne-and-lobster Tuesday and Thursday for CI$49.95 per person; three-course dinners (including two wine pairings) Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday for CI$39.95; not to mention fondue nights.
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