Ragazzi

Ragazzi Review

The name means "good buddies," and this strip-mall jewel offers simpatico ambience indeed, always percolating with conversation and good strong espresso. The airy space is convivial: blond woods, periwinkle walls and columns, and handsome artworks of beach scenes, sailboats, and palm trees (against a striking yellow sky) with the scenes extended onto the frame. Chef Adriano Usini turns out magnificent, meticulously prepared standards (the antipasto alone is worth a visit, as are the homemade breadsticks and focaccia, and definitive carpaccio and insalata Caprese). The shellfish linguine (shrimp, scallops, and mussels in a light, silken tomato sauce, with cherry-tomato skins pulled back and crisped) and gnocchi in four-cheese sauce with brandy and pistachios will please any pasta perfectionist. Two dozen first-rate pizzas emerge from the wood-burning oven, and meat and seafood mains are beautifully done, never overcooked. The wine list is notable (400-odd choices) for a casual eatery, showcasing great range and affordability even on high-ticket, hard-to-find heavy hitters such as Biondi Santi Brunello, Jermann Pinot Grigio, and Giacosa Barbaresco; the affable, knowledgeable staff will gladly suggest pairings, including unusual finds.