This stylish, sporty upstairs bistro celebrates the sea, from decor to cuisine. You half expect to find Hemingway regaling fellow barflies in the clubby interior with mahogany furnishings, ship's lanterns, porthole windows, whirring ceiling fans, and Harvey's action-packed marine art. The cool blues echo the sea and sky on display from the inviting balcony. Seafood is carefully chosen to exclude overexploited and threatened species. Seasonally changing dishes are peppered with Caribbean influences but pureed through the French chef's formal training. Hence, a silken lobster bisque is served with puff pastry, scallops à la Rockefeller with spinach and béarnaise sauce, and the signature crab cakes with roasted red pepper aioli. You can select your fish baked, pan-sautéed, or grilled. Carnivores needn't despair with veal medallions in creamy morel sauce or an intensely flavored New York strip with fresh herbs (frites optional).
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