The popularity of this large restaurant often leads to impersonal service and mediocre food. But the location, a series of elevated decks and Victorian-style gazebos in blue and white hugging the sea, is enviable and helps to explain its enduring appeal (wedding parties have their own pavilion, but celebrations of all sorts can overrun the place, including Salsa Tuesdays with lessons). The Ports of Call bar is a splendid place for sunset fanciers, and tarpon feeding off
the deck is a nightly (9 pm) spectacle. Stick to simpler fare (creole-style marinated conch fritters with homemade tartar sauce, lobster baked with truffled Parmesan in champagne) and avoid anything sounding too pretentious. Chef Christian Reiter is Austrian and patriotic, so save room for dessert: warm toffee banana pudding, apple strudel, or the house version of a napoleon don't disappoint.