Pappagallo, Italian for "parrot," hauntingly perches on the edge of a lagoon in a 14-acre bird sanctuary. Inside, riotously colored macaws, cockatoos, and parrots perch on swings behind plate glass, primping, preening, and practically commenting on the billing and cooing clientele. You feel like hacking through the luxuriant vegetation inside and out; the lost-in-the-jungle exoticism is enhanced by locally hewn stones, bamboo, homemade rope, and thatched palapas for outdoor seating. Yet the sleek deco-inspired black marble–and–polished brass accents bespeak the underlying seriousness. Italian-born Chef Marco Signori's food is definitely not for the birds, especially his sublime risotti, pastas, and seafood such as mahimahi, the kick of its smoked chipotle emulsion balanced by the sweet and tart mango-papaya salsa. Be sure to thank Bogie, the African gray parrot, who really rules the roost.