Irrepressible Gladys Howard offers Texas-style and Texas-size hospitality at her ravishing little resort. Guests have first privilege, but the kitchen can usually accommodate an extra couple or two. Advance reservations are both a must and a courtesy on this island, where nearly everything is imported at great cost and effort. The resort gardens provide mangos, key limes, basil, lemongrass, and other herbs. Gladys wears many hats on island (indeed, at special occasions, she may be wearing a bear mask, bobby cap, or crab pincers). Her lighthearted antics belie the serious food. Gladys trained with Julia Child, James Beard, Jacques Pépin, and at the legendary Cordon Bleu in Paris; she still supervises everything with an eagle eye. Memorable three-course prix-fixe dinners (wine but not tip included), served on Wedgwood, could feature anything from filet mignon with a Cabernet reduction and garlic-whipped potatoes to ahi tuna pepper steak with saffron beurre blanc, scallion-infused udon noodles, and cucumber-seaweed salad. Wildly popular sushi nights feature ultrafresh fish in eye-catching presentations. It all comes with heaping helpings of bon mots and bonhomie.