Grand Cayman

North Side

Kaibo Beach Bar and Grill. Spectacularly overlooking the North Sound, this quintessential beach hangout rocks days (fantastic lunches that cost half the price of dinner, festive atmosphere including impromptu volleyball tourneys, and free Wi-Fi), but serves murderous margaritas and mudslides well into the evening to a boisterous bevy of yachties, locals, sports buffs, and expats. There's also a terrific selection of rums. Enjoy New England-style conch chowder with a hint of heat, spinach-artichoke dip, smoked mahimahi pâté, hefty burgers, and wondrous wraps (seared tuna in wasabi mayo, grilled, spice-marinated chicken with jerk mayo), either on the multitiered deck garlanded with ships' rope and Christmas lights or in hammocks and thatched cabanas amid the palms. The handsome, nautically themed second-floor dining room, open weekend nights, serves more creative fare (specialties include baked grouper with Kaffir lime-leaf crust in lemongrass velouté) at higher prices, but the ultimate in romance is the catered "Luna del Mar" evening hosted every Friday closest to the full moon. Tuesday beach barbecues are highly popular (including limbo dancing, live music, half-price drinks, and discounted water taxi service to the "mainland"). 585 Water Cay Rd., Cayman Kai, North Side, Grand Cayman, KY1-1701. 345/947-9975. www.kaibo.ky.

Over the Edge. This fun, funky seaside spot brims with character and characters. (A soused regular might welcome you by reciting "the daily lunch special: chilled barley soup... That's beer.") The nutty nautical decor (brass ship's lanterns dangle from the ceiling, and steering wheels, lacquered turtle shells, and fishing photos adorn the walls) contrasts with cool mirrored ads for Gitanes and Mumm Cordon Rouge and the trendily semi-open kitchen with fresh fish prominently displayed. The jukebox jumps (country music rules the roost), and the tiki-lighted terrace offers stunning views and fresh breezes. Expertly prepared local fare (curried chicken to conch steak to Cayman rock lobster escoveitch, served with rice and beans, plantains, and fried festival bread) is a bargain, especially at lunch, though the chef also surprises with such gussied-up fare as shrimp in Pernod sauce and turtle steak in port. Old Man Bay, North Side, Grand Cayman, KY1-1601. 345/947-9568. www.over-theedge.com.