Hotels Overview

Tortola

Luxury on Tortola is more about a certain state of mind -- serenity, seclusion, gentility, and a bit of Britain in the Caribbean -- than about state-of-the-art amenities and fabulous facilities. Indeed, don't let a bit of rust on the screen or a chip in the paint mar your appreciation of the ambience. Instead, enjoy getting to know your fellow guests at the island's cozy hotels. Hotels in Road Town don't have beaches, but they do have pools and are within walking distance of restaurants, nightspots, and shops. Accommodations outside Road Town are relatively isolated, but most are on beaches. The Tortola resorts are intimate -- only a handful have more than 50 rooms. You will likely spend most of your time outside, so the location, size, or price of a hotel should be more of a factor to you than the decor. Guests are treated as more than just room numbers, and many return year after year. This can make booking a room at popular resorts difficult, even off-season, despite the fact that more than half the island's visitors stay aboard their own or chartered boats.

A few hotels lack air-conditioning, relying instead on ceiling fans to capture the almost constant trade winds. Nights are cool and breezy, even in midsummer, and never reach the temperatures or humidity levels that are common in much of the United States in summer. You may assume that all accommodations listed here have air-conditioning unless we mention otherwise. Remember that some places may be closed during the peak of hurricane season -- August through October -- to give their owners a much-needed break.

Virgin Gorda

Virgin Gorda's charming hostelries appeal to a select, appreciative clientele; repeat business is extremely high. Those who prefer Sheratons, Marriotts, and the like may feel they get more for their money on other islands, but the peace and pampering offered on Virgin Gorda are priceless to the discriminating traveler.

Those craving seclusion would do well at a villa. Most have full kitchens and maid service. Prices per week in winter run from around $2,000 for a one- or two-bedroom villa up to $10,000 for a five-room beachfront villa. Rates in summer are substantially less.

On Virgin Gorda, a villa in the North Sound area means you'll pretty much stay put at night unless you want to make the drive on narrow roads to the Valley's restaurants. If you opt for a spot near the Baths, it's an easy drive to town.

The St. Thomas-based McLaughlin-Anderson Luxury Villas (1000 Blackbeard's Hill, Suite 3, Charlotte Amalie, USVI, 00802-6739. 340/776-0635 or 800/537-6246. www.mclaughlinanderson.com) handles nearly two dozen properties all over Virgin Gorda. Villas range in size from two bedrooms to six bedrooms and come with many amenities, including full kitchens, pools, and stellar views. The company can hire a chef and stock your kitchen with groceries. A seven-night minimum is required during the winter season.

Virgin Gorda Villa Rentals (Box 63, The Valley. 284/495-7421 or 800/848-7081. www.virgingordabvi.com) manages more than 40 properties near Leverick Bay Resort and Mahoe Bay, so it's perfect for those who want to be close to activities. Many of the accommodations -- from studios to six or more bedrooms -- have private swimming pools and air-conditioning, at least in the bedrooms; all have full kitchens, are well maintained, and have spectacular views.