Bicycling

The best and sometimes only way to explore Bermuda's nooks and crannies—its little hidden coves and 18th-century tribe roads—is by bicycle or motor scooter. Arriving at the small shore roads and hill trails, however, means first navigating Bermuda's rather treacherous main roads. They are narrow, with no shoulders, and often congested with traffic (especially near Hamilton during rush hours). Fortunately, there's another, safer option for biking in Bermuda: the Railway Trail, a dedicated cycle path blissfully free of cars.

Despite the traffic, bicycle racing is a popular sport in Bermuda, and club groups regularly whir around the island on evening and weekend training rides. Be prepared for some tough climbs—the roads running north and south across the island are particularly steep and winding—and the wind can sap even the strongest rider's strength, especially along South Shore Road in Warwick and Southampton parishes. Island roads are no place for novice riders. Helmets are strongly recommended on pedal bikes (it's illegal to ride without them on a motor scooter), and parents should think twice before allowing preteens to bike here.

Information on local races or on how to meet up with fellow cyclists for regular group rides is available at www.bermudabicycle.org. The Winner's Edge bike shop on Front Street in Hamilton is also a good source of information about the local cycling scene.

Pedal Pointer

You can pick up the Bermuda Handy Reference Map for free at visitor information centers for Bermuda's bike routes, but it's not as detailed or clear as the Bermuda Islands map, available at the Bermuda Book Store in Hamilton. You won't be lost without a map, as bike-rental shops and hotel clerks can recommend bike routes, too, but serious cyclists may find them worth examining.

Bike Paths

The Railway Trail. Running intermittently the length of the old Bermuda Railway (old "Rattle 'n' Shake"), this trail is scenic, paved, and restricted to pedestrian and bicycle traffic. You can ask the staff at any bike-rental shop for advice on where to access the trail. One especially lovely route starts at Somerset Bridge and ends 2½ mi later near the Somerset Country Squire pub. You can take your bike onto the ferry for a pleasant ride from Hamilton or St. George's to the Somerset Bridge stop. From there, bike to the bridge on the main road, turn right, and ride uphill for about 50 yards until you reach the sign announcing Railway Trail. Turning onto the trail, you find yourself along a course with spectacular views of the Great Sound. Along the way you pass old Fort Scaur, several schools, and the large pink Somerset Cricket Club. Toward the end of the trail segment, you'll find yourself on Beacon Hill Road opposite the bus depot. Here you can turn around and head back to Somerset Bridge, or, for refreshment, turn left and ride to the main road (you can see Somerset Police Station), and make a sharp right turn to find Mangrove Bay Beach and the Somerset Country Squire pub and restaurant. Because the Railway Trail is somewhat isolated and not lighted, you should avoid it after dark.

South Shore Road. This main island road passes absolutely gorgeous ocean views. South Shore Road—also known as South Road—is well-paved and, for the most part, wider than Middle Road, North Shore Road, and Harbour Road, with relatively few hills. However, it's one of Bermuda's windiest and most heavily traveled thoroughfares.

Tribe Road 3. Tribe roads are small, often unpaved side roads, some of which date to the earliest settlement of Bermuda. They make for good exploring, though many are quite short and lead to dead ends. Beginning at Oleander Cycles in Southampton, Tribe Road 3 steeply climbs the hillside just below Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, with views of the south shore below. It eventually leads to a point from where you can see both the north and south shores.

Road Rash

The Bermudian slang dictionary Bermewjan Vurds defines road rash (grazes received from sliding along Bermuda's roads in an accident) as "a skin disease common amongst tourists brave enough to rent mopeds."

Bike Rentals

In Bermuda bicycles are called pedal or push bikes to distinguish them from the more common motorized two-wheelers, which are also called bikes. Some of the cycle liveries around the island rent both, so make sure to specify whether you want a pedal or motor bike. If you're sure you want to bicycle while you're in Bermuda, try to reserve rental bikes a few days in advance. Rates are around $25 a day, though the longer you rent, the more economical your daily rate. You may be charged an additional $15 for a repair waiver and for a refundable deposit.

Riding a motor scooter for the first time can be disconcerting, wherever you are. Here you have the added confusion that Bermudians drive on the left, and though the posted speed limit is 35 kph, the unofficial speed limit is actually closer to 50 kph (while many locals actually travel faster than that). At most rental shops, lessons on how to ride a motor scooter are perfunctory at best—practice as much as you can before going on to the main road. Though many tourists can and do rent motor scooters, the public transportation system (ferries and buses) is excellent and should not be ruled out.

Eve's Cycle Livery. In three convenient locations around the island, Eve's rents standard-size mountain bikes, as well as motor scooters, including your mandatory helmet. The staff readily supplies advice on where to ride, and there's no charge for a repair waiver. Eve's Cycles on Water Street is convenient if you arrive in Bermuda on a cruise docking in St. George's—the shop is literally a few yards away from the cruise terminal. 110 Middle Rd., near S. Shore Rd., Paget Parish. 441/236-6247.

Oleander Cycles. Known primarily for its selection of motor bikes, Oleander Cycles also rents mountain bikes, though none for kids. A repair waiver is charged. Oleander Cycles' Southampton location is convenient for Pompano Beach resort guests; it's next door to the resort. 8 Middle Rd., west of fire station, Southampton Parish. 441/234-0629. www.bermuda.com/oleander.

Smatt's Cycle Livery. Smatt's has two locations—one in Hamilton, next to the Fairmont Hamilton Princess, and the other on the west end of the island at the Fairmont Southampton Resort. The shop offers standard moped rentals with helmet. Before a moped is rented, you'll be asked to take a riding test for your safety. 74 Pitts Bay Rd., Hamilton. 441/295-1180.

Wheels Cycles. If you're staying in one of Bermuda's large resorts, chances are there's a Wheels Cycles right in the hotel. And even if you're not in a resort you may find a location nearby. The store has several branches all over the island, with mountain bikes for children and adults. Front St., near docks, Hamilton. 441/292-2245. www.bermuda.com/wheels..

Bike Tours

Fantasea Cruises. This comprehensive outfitter offers a 3½- hour bike tour along the Railway Trail. Your day will start with a short boat cruise to the trail, where you can pick up your bikes. After the ride, finish with a cool-off swim and a drink at 9 Beaches Resort in Somerset. Depending on the day, the tour will start from Albuoy's Point, Dockyard, or the Waterlot Inn at the Fairmont Southampton. The total trip, including the cruise and biking, lasts three hours. The cost is $65 per person and includes equipment and drinks. Albuoy's Point, Hamilton. 441/236-1300. www.fantasea.bm.

Bird-Watching

Forty species of warblers have been spotted in Bermuda, especially in the casuarina trees along the south shore and West End. Other omnipresent species include kiskadee, swifts, cuckoos, flycatchers, swallows, thrushes, kingbirds, and orioles. Bird conservation is a big deal in Bermuda. You can see bluebird boxes on every island golf course, which act as safe nesting sites for this jeopardized species, threatened by development and the invasive sparrow.

The largest variety of birds can be spotted during fall migration, when thousands of birds pass overhead, stop for a rest on their way south, or spend the winter on the island. You might spot the rare American avocet or the curlew sandpiper. In spring look for brightly colored Central and South American birds migrating north. The white-tail tropicbird, a beautiful white bird with black markings and a 12- to 17-inch-long tail (locals call it a "longtail"), is one of the first to arrive. Summer is the quietest season for bird-watching in Bermuda. Late migrants, like the barn swallow and chimney swift pass by, and if you check the ponds you may see the occasional shorebird.

Bermuda Audubon Society. The society has an excellent book called A Birdwatching Guide to Bermuda, by president Andrew Dobson, published by the Arlequin Press. In it are maps, illustrations, and descriptions of birds and their habitats. Several birding events are organized throughout the year, including the Christmas Bird Count—Bermuda averages 74 species per count, although 200 species have been recorded. You can find a listing of the Audubon Society's events on their Web site as well as a bird-watching checklist. 441/292-1920. www.audubon.bm.

Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences (BIOS). Birders may be interested in David Wingate's efforts to repopulate the native cahow bird (Bermuda petrel) population via artificial burrows and other means on Nonsuch Island. Tours of the island are arranged by the institute and cost $75 for three to four hours. These tours are on weekdays only, as BIOS is open weekdays 8:30 to 5. 17 Biological La., Ferry Reach, St. George's Parish. 441/297-1880. www.bbsr.edu..

Seymour's Pond Nature Reserve. Seymour's Pond is smaller than Warwick and Spittal ponds, but it has the advantage of being a bit farther inland, and therefore better protected. Twenty-eight species of duck are recorded in Bermuda and you're quite likely to see many of them here. Middle Rd., near Barnes Corner, Southampton Parish.

Spittal Pond Nature Reserve. Stretching placidly within a 60-acre nature reserve, Spittal Pond is an excellent place to view wildlife, especially birds. As long as the water level is not too high, some 30 species of shorebird can be present on the margins of the pond. On a good day in September you might see more than 100 birds. Semipalmated sandpipers are perhaps the most abundant. In winter, herons and egrets roost serenely in the shallow water. You can tour the reserve unaccompanied, or take a scheduled tour with a park ranger, usually on Friday. South Rd., Smith's Parish. 441/236-4201.

Warwick Pond. In a well-kept inland nature preserve, Bermuda's only natural freshwater pond is prime bird territory. Shorebirds and herons gather around its edges in fall and winter. In the heat of summer, the stagnant water lets off a rather putrid smell. Middle Rd., near Ettrick Animal Hospital, Warwick Parish.

Charter Boats & Boat Tours

Bermuda is gorgeous by land, but you should take to the water to fully appreciate its beauty. You can either rent your own boat or charter one with a skipper. There are literally scores of options to suit all tastes from champagne cruises at sunset to cruise and kayak ecotours.

Charter Boats

More than 20 large power cruisers and sailing vessels, piloted by local skippers, are available for charter. Primarily 30 to 60 feet long, most charter sailboats can carry up to 30 passengers, sometimes overnight. Meals and drinks can be included on request, and a few skippers offer dinner cruises for the romantically inclined. Rates generally range from $300 to $450 for a three-hour cruise, or $650 to $1,500 for a full-day cruise, with additional per-person charges for large groups. Where you go and what you do—exploring, swimming, snorkeling, cruising—is usually up to you and your skipper. Generally, however, cruises travel to and around the islands of the Great Sound. Several charter skippers advertise year-round operations, but the off-season schedule can be haphazard. Skippers devote periods of the off-season to maintenance and repairs or close altogether if bookings lag. Be sure to book well in advance; in the high season do so before you arrive on the island.

Adventure Enterprises. A 36-foot motorized timaran, the Argo II, can carry up to 36 people and rents for $250 per hour for sightseeing tours. Ordnance Island, St. George's. 441/335-1382.

Ana Luna Adventures. The Ana Luna is a 45-foot catamaran, which offers snorkeling cruises, scuba diving trips, and sunset tours as well as a host of other marine adventures. Captain Nathan will tailor his tours to your requirements. Overnight "bed and breakfast" charters are also available for $195-per-person. Grotto Bay Beach Hotel, 11 Blue Hole Hill, Hamilton Parish. 441/293-7319. www.analunaadventures.com.

Bermuda Barefoot Cruises. Skipper Doug Jones will accommodate your every need. He has two 32-foot boats, the Minnow and the Veebyes, available strictly by private charter, and he'll pick you up and take you anywhere you like. It's like hiring a limousine for a tour of a city, instead of taking a bus. Rates vary depending on the length of the sail. 441/236-3498.

Restless Native Tours. Fresh batches of cookies baked on board at every sailing and washed down with lemonade or rum swizzles are the delicious trademark of this family-owned and -operated charter company. Restless Native is also unique in its educational approach to chartering—they offer a crash course on Bermuda's fish and a guided snorkeling trip. The 50- by 30-foot boat is excellent for dinner charters, evening cocktail cruises, birthday parties, and weddings. The owners can pick you up at any wharf on the island. 441/734-8149 or 441/234-1434.

Rising Son Cruises. The Rising Son II is a beautiful, 60-foot, 80-passenger catamaran with a full bar. Besides offering sailing, swimming, and snorkeling trips, Captain William "Beez" Evans and the accommodating crew can arrange for you to spend part of the day on Jet Skis, in kayaks, or with a parasailing outfitter. Rates start at $800 for the first hour and go up to $2,000 for four hours depending on the number of passengers (up to 80). You can also book one of the popular cruises, such as the Turtle Bay Catamaran Beach Trip. The boat cruises over a turtle sanctuary before anchoring off a quiet sandy bay for snorkeling and kayaking. The price is $65 a head. Town Sq., St. George's. 441/232-5789. www.charterbermuda.com.

Tam-Marina. Founded in 1969, Tam-Marina has a reputation for lively dinner and cocktail cruises on a fleet of elegant white ships. Lady Erica and Lady Tamara often accommodate large private parties on the Great Sound, whereas Lady Charlotte is smaller and more luxurious. You can book online. 61 Harbour Rd., Paget Parish. 441/236-0127. www.ladyboats.com.

Wind Sail Charters. You can rent a 41-, 51-, or 60-foot Morgan yacht, including snorkeling equipment, from Wind Sail. Captain Mike or his daughter, Captain Melissa, will sail to your location and take you for a spin. The rates for six people are $350 to $500, depending on the boat, for three hours, making this one of the most affordable rides on the island. Lunch catering is available for an extra charge. 441/734-8547. www.bermudawindsailcharters.com.

Whale-Watching

During March and April the majestic humpback whales pass Bermuda as they migrate north to summer feeding grounds. Watching these giant animals as they leap out of the ocean is an awe-inspiring spectacle. You can see them from Elbow Beach or West Whale Bay on a clear day, if you're prepared to wait. But if you want to get a close-up view you can book a tour with an operator like Fantasea or Charter Bermuda Ltd.

Cricket

Cricket is one of the favorite pasttimes on this sports-mad island, a fact that was seen with the national celebrations that followed the island's qualification for the Cricket World Cup in 2007. Bermuda is the smallest country ever to make the finals of the competition and its cricketers are treated as heroes in their homeland.

On the local scene, Cup Match in late July or early August is the summer sporting event, played over two days. The event celebrates the emancipation of slaves in Bermuda, with the top players from around the island competing in two teams: the East End team and the West End team. Although the match is taken very seriously, the event itself is a real festival, complete with plenty of Bermudian food and music. Bermuda's only venue for legal gambling, the Crown & Anchor tent is pitched at the field each year. Thousands of picnickers and partyers show up during the two-day match. Although the players wear only white, fans wear colors to support their team—blue on blue represents the East End and navy on red represents the West End. A $10 entry fee is charged per day.

The regular cricket season runs from April through September. Contact the Bermuda Cricket Board (Gorham Rd., Hamilton. 441/292-8958. www.bermudacricketboard.com) for information about the match and other events throughout the year.

Fishing

Bermuda's proximity to the deep ocean makes it one of the best places in the world for deep-sea fishing. Many of the International Fishing Association's world-record catches were hauled in a few miles off the Bermuda coastline. July and August is marlin season, and anglers from all over the world come to the island in a bid to try and hook monster blue marlin in excess of 1,000 pounds. Deep-sea fishing is not just for the experts, though. Most charter companies are happy to teach amateurs how to hook and reel in a catch—whether it's tuna, wahoo, or even marlin. Some of the charter fishermen let you keep your catch but they're not obliged to do so. Many of the fishermen rely on sales to restaurants to bolster their businesses, so unless it's a good day they might not give much away. And don't be surprised to find fish you pulled out of the ocean that day on the menu in one of Bermuda's many restaurants that evening. As well as deep-sea fishing, shore fishing is also popular, while some fishermen trawl inside the reefs. If you've got the cash there's no substitute for the thrill of the open ocean. Scores of operators are on the island, about 20 of which are regularly out on the water. A full list is available at www.bermudatourism.com/fishing_charter.html. Prices vary depending on the size and quality of the boat.

Reef & Offshore Fishing

Three major reef bands lie at various distances from the island. The first is anywhere from ½ to 5 mi offshore. The second, the Challenger Bank, is about 12 mi offshore. The third, the Argus Bank, is about 30 mi offshore. As a rule, the farther out you go, the larger the fish—and the more expensive the charter.

Most charter-fishing captains go to the reefs and deep water to the southwest and northwest of the island, where the fishing is best. Catches over the reefs include snapper, amberjack, grouper, and barracuda. Of the most sought-after deepwater fish—marlin, tuna, wahoo, and dolphinfish—wahoo is the most common, dolphinfish the least. Trawling is the usual method of deepwater fishing, and charter-boat operators offer various tackle setups, with test-line weights ranging from 20 pounds to 130 pounds. The boats, which range from 31 feet to 55 feet long, are fitted with gear and electronics to track fish, including depth sounders, global-positioning systems, loran systems, video fish finders, radar, and computer scanners.

Half-day and full-day charters are offered by most operators, but full-day trips offer the best chance for a big catch because the boat has time to reach waters that are less often fished. Rates are about $600 per boat for half a day (four hours), $1,000 per day (eight hours). For more information about chartering a fishing boat, you can request or pick up a copy of What to Do: Information and Prices at the Bermuda Department of Tourism.

Atlantic Spray Charters. Half-day and full-day year-round charters are available on Atlantic's 40-foot Tenacious. Rates are $650 for the four-hour half day, $850 for six hours, and $1,000 for the eight-hour full day, including all the equipment you need, soda and water, and, most importantly, the knowledge you need to catch the big fish. St. George's. 441/735-9444.

Fish Bermuda. Allen DeSilva is one of Bermuda's most knowledgeable skippers. His Web site is a great source of information on fishing conditions in Bermuda and he guarantees a fun day out for beginners or serious anglers on his DeMako boat, based out of Mill Creek near Hamilton. It costs $1,600 to charter the boat for a nine-hour day. Check out DeSilva's Web site for yummy recipes on how to cook up your local catch. Mill Creek, Pembroke. 441/295-0835 or 441/505-8626. www.fishbermuda.com.

Messaround Charters. With half-day and all-day charters available from Messaround Charters, it's easy to get to some of the prime offshore fishing grounds. Skipper Willard Joe Kelly can show you the ropes. 441/297-8093 or 441/234-8953. www.fishandfun.bm.

Overproof. Skipper Peter Rans is a regular in the big-game classic and a master at hooking monster marlin. He can take you to the best spots and help you reel in whatever game fish is in season. His rates vary from $850 for half a day to $1,350 for nine hours of serious marlin hunting. 136 Somerset Rd., Somerset. 441/238-5663 or 441/335-9850. www.overprooffishing.com.

Playmate Fishing Charters. Father-and-son team Keith and Kevin Winter boast a combined total of 75 years fishing Bermuda's waters so you won't be stuck for experience on a Playmate charter. Rates go from $900 for half a day to $1,300 for the full day with extra costs for tournament fishing. 4 Mills Point La., Pembroke. 441/292-7131 or 441/335-5172. www.playmatefishing.com.

Shore Fishing

Windjammer Watersports. Rods and reels rent for $20 a day (credit card required to secure the rental). Squid bait and weights are sold here, and it's open seven days a week. Dockyard Marina. 441/234-3082.

Golf

Helmet Diving

A different, less technical type of diving popular in Bermuda is helmet diving, offered between April and mid-November. Although helmet-diving cruises last three hours or more, the actual time underwater is about 25 minutes, when underwater explorers walk along the sandy bottom in about 10 to 12 feet of water (depending on the tide), wearing helmets that receive air through hoses leading to the surface. Underwater portraits are available for an extra charge. A morning or afternoon tour costs about $50 for adults and includes wet suits when the water temperature is below 80°F. Note that not all outfitters permit children to helmet dive.

Greg Hartley's Under Sea Adventure. The Hartleys schedule two diving trips per day, usually at 10 and 1:30, six days per week, in high season. Dives cost $75 for adults and $50 for children. Nondivers are not allowed to snorkel or swim in the same area as the divers, the theory being that fish that are used to helmet divers and approach them for food may endanger themselves by becoming used to snorkelers, swimmers, and eventually fisherfolk. Watford Bridge, Sandys Parish. 441/234-2861. www.hartleybermuda.com.

Peppercorn Diving. Affiliated with Triangle Diving, Peppercorn offers an introduction to the underwater world if you're not ready to take on scuba diving. Grotto Bay Beach Hotel, 11 Blue Hole Hill, Hamilton Parish. 441/293-7319. www.trianglediving.com..

Parasailing

Parasailing outfitters operate in the Great Sound and in Castle Harbour from May through October. The cost is about $45 per person for an eight-minute flight. Want to sail through the sky with your significant other under a single parachute? Two-person trips costs around $80.

KS Watersports. This is the place to go for parasailing in the east end. Located close to the White Horse pub in the center of St George's, the 10-minute, $75 tour offers magnificent views. Jet Ski tours also run from here. 8 King's Sq., St. George's. 441/297-4155.

Skyrider Bermuda. Skyrider tours over the Great Sound depart every hour on the hour and cost $65 for adults, $50 for children ($20 if you just want to ride in the boat). Launch from the back of the boat, then sit back and enjoy the view from 300 feet. You don't get wet, so you can take your camera along for the ride. It lasts about 12 minutes and flying tandem is an option. Dockyard Marina, Sandys Parish. 441/747-7245.

Rugby

Bermuda's rugby season runs from September to April. The World Rugby Classic (441/291-1517. www.worldrugby.bm), in November, brings erstwhile top players, now retired, to the island for a week of play and parties—it's a hugely popular event among Bermuda's expatriate community. A game pass for the week is $100, daily admission is $25. The Classic can provide information about other matches as well.

Running & Walking

Top runners flock to the island in January for the Bermuda International Race Weekend, which includes a marathon and 10-km races. Many of the difficulties that cyclists face in Bermuda—hills, traffic, and wind—also confront runners. Be careful of traffic when walking or running along Bermuda's narrow roads—most don't have shoulders.

Bermuda International Marathon, Half Marathon, and 10K Race. Part of International Race Weekend, held in mid-January, these races attract world-class distance runners from several countries, but they're open to everyone. 441/236-6086.

Bermuda Triathlons. These three-sport events are held about once a month from April to October. The events combine a swim, a cycling leg, and a run. 441/293-2765. www.bta.bm.

Mid-Atlantic Athletic Club Fun Runs. These 2-mi sprints are held Tuesday evening April through October. Runs begin at 6 near the Berry Hill Road entrance to the Botanical Gardens. There's no fee. 441/293-8103.

The Railway Trail. Runners who like firm pavement are happiest and safest along this former train route, one of the most peaceful stretches of road in Bermuda.

South-Shore Beaches. If you like running on sand, head for the south shore. The trails through South Shore Park are relatively firm. A large number of serious runners can be seen on Horseshoe Bay Beach and Elbow Beach early in the morning and after 5 PM. Another beach for running is ½-mi Warwick Long Bay, the island's longest uninterrupted stretch of sand. The sand is softer here than at Horseshoe and Elbow, so it's difficult to get good footing, particularly at high tide. By using South Shore Park trails to skirt coral bluffs, you can create a route that connects several beaches. Note that the trails can be winding and uneven in some places.

Bermuda Marathon Derby. Held on Bermuda Day (May 24), a public holiday, the race brings thousands of locals and visitors, who line the edges of the 13.1-mi course. This race is open to residents only but it's fun to watch.

On a Roll

Rent a Segway,a two-wheeled upright power scooter, and tour around historic Dockyard. Pick yours up at the old-fashioned double decker bus across from Dockyard Glassworks and Bermuda Rum Cake Company. Tours are 1½ hours long and cost $76, which includes Segway training. Times are 9:30, noon, and 2:30. Corner of Camber Rd. and Dockyard Terrace. 441/504-2581.

Sailing & Yachting

Bermuda has a worldwide reputation as a yacht-racing center. The sight of the racing fleet, with brightly colored spinnakers flying, is striking even if it's difficult to follow the intricacies of the race. The racing season runs from March to November. Most races are held on weekends in the Great Sound, and several classes of boats usually compete. You can watch from Spanish Point and along the Somerset shoreline. Anyone who wants to get a real sense of the action should be on board a boat near the race course. The Gold Cup race is held in October, and International Race Week is held at the end of April. In June in alternating years, Bermuda serves as the finish point for oceangoing yachts in three major races starting in the United States.

Races & Events

Bermuda Ocean Race. This race, from Annapolis, Maryland, takes place every other year in June, with one in 2010. For information, contact St. George's Dinghy & Sports Club (441/297-1612).

King Edward VII Gold Cup. This is the event of choice if you're more interested in racing than gawking at expensive yachts. Managed by the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club (441/295-2214), the October tournament hosts many of the world's top sailors—some of whom are America's Cup skippers—and includes the elite among Bermudians in a lucrative chase for thousands in prize money.

Marion (MA)-to-Bermuda Cruising Yacht Race. Only slightly smaller in scale than the Newport-to-Bermuda, this race is held in June of odd-numbered years. Contact the Royal Hamilton Amateur Dinghy Club (441/236-2250. www.rhadc.com) for information on where to watch it.

Non-Mariners Race. Though not as prestigious as the rest, this annual race, which takes place in early August during Cup Match weekend (the annual cricket holiday), is one of the highlights of the year. Held out of the Sandys Boat Club (441/234-2248 or 441/234-4137) at Mangrove Bay, the goal of this race is simple: to see whose boat (constructed on the beach minutes before) can make it out of the harbor without sinking. Easy to watch, as the boats never get very far from land, this race sets the stage for an afternoon of music, barbecue, local political satire, and merrymaking. Legend has it that someone even tried to float an old bus one year. A good viewpoint from which to watch the race is the Somerset Country Squire Pub (441/234-0105).

Good to Know

If you rent a motorboat be sure to ask for directions to Castle Island Nature Reserve, one of the most secluded and beautiful spots on the island.

Rentals

Outfitters like Blue Hole Watersports and Windjammer have a range of crafts to rent and also offer lessons for beginners. It's also worth checking out Paget Dinghy Club,which is the main center for sailors in Hamilton and offers lessons for beginners. If you know what you're doing and fancy taking part in some amateur racing, this is the place to be on a Wednesday evening. Just turn up at the dock—skippers are always looking for willing crew members. Mangroville, Paget. 441/236-3077. www.rhadc.com.

Scuba Diving

Bermuda has all the ingredients for classic scuba diving—reefs, wrecks, underwater caves, a variety of coral and marine life, and clear, warm water. Although you can dive year-round (you will have to bring your own gear in winter, when dive shops are closed), the best months are May through October, when the water is calmest and warmest. No prior certification is necessary. Novices can learn the basics and dive in water up to 25 feet deep on the same day. Three-hour resort courses ($95-$110) teach the basics in a pool, on the beach, or off a dive boat, and culminate in a reef or wreck dive.

The easiest day trips involve exploring the south-shore reefs that lie inshore. These reefs may be the most dramatic in Bermuda. The ocean-side drop-off exceeds 60 feet in some places, and the coral is so honeycombed with caves, ledges, and holes that opportunities for discovery are pretty much infinite. Despite concerns about dying coral and dwindling fish populations, most of Bermuda's reefs are still in good health. No one eager to swim with multicolor schools of fish or the occasional barracuda will be disappointed. In the interest of preservation the removal of coral is illegal and subject to hefty fines.

Dive shops around Bermuda prominently display a map of the outlying reef system and its wreck sites. Only 38 of the wrecks from the past three centuries are marked. They're the larger wrecks that are still in good condition. The nautical carnage includes some 300 wreck sites—an astonishing number—many of which are well preserved. As a general rule, the more recent the wreck or the more deeply submerged it is, the better its condition. Most of the well-preserved wrecks are to the north and east, and dive depths range between 25 feet and 80 feet. Several wrecks off the western end of the island are in relatively shallow water, 30 feet or less, making them accessible to novice divers and even snorkelers.

Blue Water Divers Ltd. The major operator for wrecks on the western side of the island, Blue Water Divers offers lessons, tours, and rentals. The lesson-and-dive package for first-time divers, including equipment, costs $115 on the resort and $160 from the boat. From the Elbow Beach Hotel location, you can ride a diver-propulsion vehicle (DPV), which is like an underwater scooter, past a wreck and through caves and canyons. A one-tank dive for experienced divers costs $65, and a two-tank dive is $105. With two tanks—the more commonly offered package—you can explore two or more wrecks in one four-hour outing. For all necessary equipment—mask, fins, snorkel, scuba apparatus, and wet suit (if needed)—plan to spend about $40 more. This operator is not to be confused with Dive Bermuda, despite the Web address. Elbow Beach Hotel, Paget Parish. 441/232-2909. www.divebermuda.com.

Dive Bermuda was awarded National Geographic Dive Centre status in 2006 and is the only center on the island to offer courses sanctioned by the world-renowned environmental magazine. It also offers PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) instructor-level courses for divers who want to take the next step in their training. Formerly known as Nautilus Diving, it has locations on the south shore and Hamilton Harbour out of the famous Fairmont hotels. A lesson-and-dive package typically costs $115 including equipment, the same as a single-tank dive. A double-tank dive costs $135. Group rates and multiple dives cost less. Fairmont Hamilton Princess Hotel. 441/295-9485. www.bermudascuba.com.

Triangle Diving. For East End diving among wrecks and coral reefs, head for this outfitter in the Grotto Bay Beach Hotel. A range of dive tours is offered, as well as PADI certification courses. Friendly staff who really know their stuff and who never get tired of sharing their vast knowledge of Bermuda's wrecks make diving with this company all the more fun. The location also offers great access to one of Bermuda's most beautiful reefs at North Rock. Triangle is the only dive center on the island that offers enriched air or nitrox diving. Also worth checking out are the regular Tuesday night dives. Grotto Bay Beach Hotel, 11 Blue Hole Hill, Hamilton Parish. 441/293-7319. www.trianglediving.com.

Scuba Newbies

If you've never dived before but want to give it a try, Bermuda is a great place to start. All of the island's dive centers offer a Discover Scuba course, which allows first-time divers to take a brief lesson and follow an instructor on a shallow wreck or reef dive.

Snorkeling

The clarity of the water, the stunning array of coral reefs, and the shallow resting places of several wrecks make snorkeling in the waters around Bermuda—both inshore and offshore—particularly worthwhile. You can snorkel year-round, although a wet suit is advisable for anyone planning to spend a long time in the water in winter, when the water temperature can dip into the 60s. The water also tends to be rougher in winter, often restricting snorkeling to the protected areas of Harrington Sound and Castle Harbour. Underwater caves, grottoes, coral formations, and schools of small fish are the highlights of these areas.

Some of the best snorkeling sites are accessible only by boat. As the number of wrecks attests, navigating around Bermuda's reef-strewn waters is no simple task, especially for inexperienced boaters. If you rent a boat yourself, stick to the protected waters of the sounds, harbors, and bays, and be sure to ask for an ocean-navigation chart. These charts point out shallow waters, rocks, and hidden reefs.

For trips to the reefs, let someone else do the navigating—a charter-boat skipper or one of the snorkeling-cruise operators. Some of the best reefs for snorkeling, complete with shallow-water wrecks, are to the west, but where the tour guide or skipper goes often depends on the tide, weather, and water conditions. For snorkelers who demand privacy and freedom of movement, a boat charter (complete with captain) is the only answer, but the cost is considerable—$650 a day for a party of 18. By comparison, half a day of snorkeling on a regularly scheduled cruise generally costs $45 to $65, including equipment and instruction.

Church Bay. When Bermudians are asked to name a favorite snorkeling spot, they invariably rank Church Bay in Southampton (at the western end of the south-shore beaches) at, or near, the top of the list. A small cove cut out of the coral cliffs, the bay is full of nooks and crannies, and the reefs are relatively close to shore. Snorkelers should exercise caution here (as you should everywhere along the south shore), as the water can be rough. A small stall often sells snorkeling equipment, underwater cameras, and fish food.

John Smith's Bay. This popular snorkeling spot off the south shore of Smith's Parish has several reefs close to the shore as well as the added safety of a lifeguard overseeing the beach. Beware, this site occasionally experiences rip currents.

Snorkel Park. Off a rocky beach surrounded by the walls of the fort in Dockyard, the snorkel park is a cool place for kids. With a sunken cannon and other underwater features it's worth a look if you're in the West End. There's a bar and you can rent umbrellas and snorkel gear for a small fee. The site is closed November through April.

Tobacco Bay. This beautiful bay is tucked in a cove near historic Fort St. Catherine's beach. Tobacco Bay offers wonderful snorkeling, public facilities, and equipment rentals, and there's a snack bar near the shore. This site is the most popular in St. George's.

Warwick Long Bay. On south shore in Warwick, this ½-mi of beach is usually secluded and quiet. After Hurricane Fabian in 2003, formerly popular snorkeling spot Church Bay was closed to the public and the snorkeling concession stand there (featuring a popular DJ) was moved to Warwick Long Bay until Church Bay could be reopened.

West Whale Bay. Tiny West Whale Bay, off the western shore near the Port Royal Golf Course in Southampton, is quiet and usually uncrowded. The beach disappears during high tide, though, so check tide times first.

Kiteboarding

Also known as kite surfing, this is one of the newest and fastest-growing extreme sports in the world. It involves using a large power kite to drag a small surfboard along the water. If you're interested in giving it a try, check out www.bka.bm to hook up with local instructors. If extreme sports are not your thing, the sight of the giant kites dipping and rising in the breeze is still an awesome spectacle if you're walking along Elbow Beach on a windy day.

Snorkeling Cruises

Snorkeling cruises, offered from April to November, are a less expensive albeit less personal way to experience the underwater world. Some boats carry up to 40 passengers to snorkeling sites but focus mostly on their music and bars (complimentary beverages are usually served on the trip back from the reefs). Smaller boats, which limit capacity to 10 to 16 passengers, offer more personal attention and focus more on the beautiful snorkeling areas themselves. Guides on such tours often relate interesting historical and ecological information about the island. To make sure you choose a boat that's right for you, ask for details before booking. Most companies can easily arrange private charters for groups.

Hayward's Snorkeling & Glass Bottom Boat Cruises. Groups of about 35 people board Hayward's 54-foot glass-bottom Explorer for 3¾-hour snorkeling trips. Access into and out of the water from the boat is easy. Special excursions are arranged during the spring migration of the humpback whales. Adjacent to Hamilton Ferry Terminal. 441/236-9894. $50. Daily 9:45 and 1:30.

Jessie James Cruises. Half-day trips aboard the 31-foot glass-bottomed boat Pisces, which holds up to 17 people, cost $65, $45 for children (ages 8-10). The boat takes you to three different sites, including at least two shipwrecks. 47 Front St., Hamilton. 441/236-4804. www.jessiejames.bm.

Restless Native Tours. Captain Kirk Ward has regularly scheduled sailing and snorkeling trips to the outer reefs on a 50-by-30-foot catamaran. With a crash course in Bermuda's marine life, plus fresh cookies on board, it's hard to resist this popular outfitter. The tours depart from wharfs all over the island. 441/234-8149 or 441/234-1434.

Snorkeling Equipment Rentals

Snorkeling equipment and sometimes underwater cameras are available for rent at most major hotels and at several marinas, as well as from the snorkeling concession stand at Warwick Long Bay. The Grotto Bay Beach Hotel & Tennis Club and Fairmont Southampton have dive operators on-site. A deposit or credit-card number is usually required when renting equipment.

Pompano Beach Club Watersports Centre. Equipment at Pompano rents for $8 per day, or $4 per hour, for a mask, snorkel, and flippers. Each piece is also available separately. 36 Pompano Beach Rd., Southampton Parish. 441/234-0222.

Windjammer Watersports. You can rent mask, snorkel, and flippers here for $20 per 24-hour period. Two of three pieces cost just $10. Dockyard Marina, Sandys Parish. 441/234-0250.

Soccer

Football (soccer) season runs from September through April in Bermuda. One of Bermuda's two national sports, football is massively popular among Bermudians, who often crowd matches in the evenings and on weekends. You can watch local teams in various age divisions battle it out on fields around the island.

The Bermuda Hogges are the island's only professional football team. They play in the American United Soccer League Division Two against sides from places on the eastern coast of America like Richmond and Charlotte. They play their home games at the Bermuda National Sports Centre during the summer months. Tickets cost between $25 and $35.

Tennis

Bermuda has one tennis court for every 600 residents, a ratio that even the most tennis-crazed countries would find difficult to match. Many are private, but the public has access to more than 70 courts in 20 locations. Courts are inexpensive and seldom full. Hourly rates for nonguests are about $10 to $16. You might want to consider bringing along a few fresh cans of balls, because balls in Bermuda cost $6 to $7 per can—two to three times the rate in the United States. Among the surfaces used in Bermuda are Har-Tru, clay, cork, and hard composites, of which the relatively slow Plexipave composite is the most prevalent. Despite Bermuda's British roots, the island has no grass court.

Wind, heat (in summer), and humidity are the most distinct characteristics of Bermudian tennis. From October through March, when daytime temperatures rarely exceed 80°F, play is comfortable throughout the day. But in summer, the heat radiating from the court (especially hard courts) can make play uncomfortable between 11 AM and 3 PM, so some clubs take a midday break. Most tennis facilities offer lessons, ranging from $25 to $30 for 30 minutes of instruction, and racket rentals for $4 to $6 per hour or per play.

Coral Beach & Tennis Club. Introduction by a member is required to play at this exclusive club, which is the site of the annual XL Capital Bermuda Open tournament in April. Coral Beach has eight clay courts, three of which are floodlighted. It's open daily from 8 to 8. Resident pro Derek Singleton is the man to talk to about scheduling lessons, which run $45 for a half hour. Tennis whites are required. Off South Shore Rd., Paget Parish. 441/236-2233.

Elbow Beach Hotel. This facility is fortunate to have as its director of tennis David Lambert, who is also a former president of the Bermuda Lawn Tennis Association. There are five Plexipave courts on hand, three with lights, and hours of play are 8 AM to 9 PM daily. Courts cost $12 per hour. Lessons and match play can be arranged for hotel guests or other visitors at $30 per half hour. Off South Shore Rd., Paget Parish. 441/236-3535.

The Fairmont Southampton. Despite their position at the water's edge, the Plexipave hard courts here are reasonably shielded from the wind, although the breeze can be swirling and difficult. Six courts are at hand, with fees ranging from $12 to $16 per hour on any of the three courts that have lighting. Hours of service are daily from 8 AM to 6 PM, extended until 8 in summer. Lessons from pro Mark Cordeiro are available at $40 per half hour or $75 per hour. South Shore Rd., Southampton Parish. 441/238-1005.

Government Tennis Stadium. These are the busiest of Bermuda's tennis courts, their inland location ideal for combating strong winds. Of the eight all-weather courts available, five are Plexi-Cushion and three are Har-Tru. Three courts in the main stadium have floodlights. Hours are from 8 AM to 10 PM weekdays and from 8 to 6 on weekends. Rates are $8 per hour during the day and $16 per hour at night. Tennis attire is required, and lessons are available starting at $30 per half hour and $50 per full hour. 2 Marsh Folly, Pembroke Parish. 441/292-0105.

Grotto Bay Beach Hotel & Tennis Club. A little more than a stone's throw from the Bermuda International Airport, Grotto Bay has four Plexipave cork-based courts, two lighted, with an hourly rate of $12. It's open daily, 7 to 7, with a midday break. Lessons are $25 per half hour and $45 per full hour. Tennis attire is required. North Shore Rd., Hamilton Parish. 441/293-8333 Ext. 1914.

Pomander Gate Tennis Club. There are five hard courts available (four with lighting) at this scenic club located off Hamilton Harbour. Temporary membership is available for $30 per couple per week. Hours of play are 7 AM to 11 PM on weekdays, until 10 PM on weekends. Pomander Rd., Paget Parish. 441/236-5400.

Port Royal Golf Course. Port Royal has four hard courts, two of which are floodlit. A host of pros are on hand to offer instruction. Rates for court play are the cheapest on the island; $10 per hour in the day and $14 per hour at night—it's open until 10 PM. Arrangements can be made through the golf club from 10 AM. Off Middle Rd., Southampton Parish. 441/238-9430.

Tennis Tournaments

Bermuda Lawn Tennis Association. Established in 1964, the association hosts all the important tennis events on the island. Ask for an events calendar. Box HM 341, Hamilton, HM BX. 441/296-0834. www.blta.bm.

The pink sand of Horseshoe Beach hosts the island's International Beach Tennis tournament in September. A cross between tennis and beach volleyball, the three-day tournament features "stars" of the game, plus an amateur division that anyone can enter. If you're not visiting in September, the Bermuda Beach Tennis Association runs regular pick-up games every Saturday throughout the summer. For more information, call 441/238-1005 or visit www.bermudabeachtennis.com.

XL Capital Bermuda Open. In April the clay courts at the Coral Beach & Tennis Club host this ATP Tour, a USTA-sanctioned event with the world's top professionals. Big names, such as Patrick Rafter and Todd Eldridge, have played in this event, as well as several of Bermuda's own tennis stars, such as James Collieson. In November there's back-to-back tournament activity at the club, too. The action begins with the Bermuda Lawn Tennis Club Invitational followed by the Coral Beach Club Invitational.