Fewer than 300 people live on skinny, 2 1/2-mi-long Man-O-War Cay, many of them descendants of early Loyalist settlers named Albury, who started the tradition of handcrafting boats more than two centuries ago. These residents remain proud of their heritage and continue to build their famous fiberglass boats today. This shipwrighting center of the Abacos lies south of Green Turtle and Great Guana cays, an easy 45-minute ride from Marsh Harbour by water taxi or aboard a small rented outboard runabout. Man-O-War Cay also has a 28-slip marina, three churches, a one-room schoolhouse, several shops, grocery stores, and restaurants that cater largely to visitors.
A mile north of the island, you can dive to the wreck of the USS Adirondack, which sank after hitting a reef in 1862. It lies among a host of cannons in 20 feet of water. The cay is also a marvelous place to walk or to take a rented golf cart for a spin -- no cars are allowed on the island. Two main roads, Queen's Highway and Sea Road, are shaded with arching sea grape trees interspersed with palms and pines. The island is secluded, but it has kept up-to-date with satellite television and full phone and Internet service. Still, the old-fashioned, family-oriented roots show in the local policy toward liquor: it isn't sold anywhere on the island. (But most folks won't mind if you bring your own.)
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