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The Cove Review

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The Cove

Address: Boon's Point, Soldier's Bay
Phone: 268/562-2683
www.thecove-antigua.com

Price range: $$$-$$$$
Cuisine: Eclectic
Location: Antigua and Barbuda

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Fodor's Review:

Flaming tiki torches flank the entrance of this contemporary architectural take on a plantation greathouse. Inside, a candlelit foyer leads to a handsome polished-wood bar. Scot chef Graham Singer delights in pleasing the eye as well as the palate with exquisite presentations. Appetizers focus on what he calls "simpler old-school multicultural food," uncluttered yet jauntily juxtaposing tastes and textures, as in pan-seared sea scallops in ginger vinaigrette with bell pepper, black olive, and sesame seed salad or crispy duck spring rolls and confit duck salad with serrano-chili-infused dip. Daring desserts incorporate savory ingredients with varying success: Witness star-anise-poached plums with baked praline cheesecake and red-wine-chili ice cream. Alas, in between the otherwise clear-minded cooking loses its bearings: Main courses lack flair and even flavor, often overcooked or drowned in overwhelming sauces. Still, it's a refined, relaxing evening out. In fair weather, opt for a terrace table overlooking the floodlighted ocean. Despite the grandeur, service is warm and welcoming.

Keep in mind: Reservations essential.
Credit Cards: AE, D, MC, V
Closed: No dinner Sun., no lunch Mon.-Sat.