An incomparable beachfront setting, impeccable service, superb extras (free scuba diving), effortless elegance: Curtain Bluff is that rare retreat that stays modern while exuding a magical timelessness. The lavish gardens and legendary 25,000-bottle wine cellar bespeak late owner–founder Howard Hulford's passions, which management is continuing and the loyal multigenerational clientele (yes, families are coddled) shares. Some might find Curtain Bluff stuffy and country-clubby, but guests merely respect one another's privacy. Gorgeous, sunken junior suites—over half the rooms—have marble bathrooms, grass mats, Mexican earthenware, deco-funky lamps, and coffered raw-wood ceilings. Stunning duplex suites, in soothing whites and blues, scale the bluff; their hammock-slung terraces alone outclass many hotel rooms. Everyone eventually emerges for classic Continental dining and dancing to live bands in the lovely alfresco restaurant, where chef Christophe Blatz also gives cooking and wine-pairing classes. The elegant waterfront spa exemplifies how Curtain Bluff remains a world-class resort that's a bargain in its class.