Diving in Antigua and Barbuda

Antigua is an unsung diving destination, with plentiful undersea sights to explore, from coral canyons to sea caves. Barbuda alone features roughly 200 wrecks on its treacherous reefs. The most accessible wreck is the 1890s bark Andes, not far out in Deep Bay, off Five Islands Peninsula. Among the favorite sites are Green Island, Cades Reef, and Bird Island (a national park). Memorable sightings include turtles, stingrays, and barracuda darting amid basalt walls, hulking boulders, and stray 17th-century anchors and cannon. One advantage is accessibility in many spots for shore divers and snorkelers. Double-tank dives run about $90.

Big John's Dive Antigua (Rex Halcyon Cove Beach Resort, Dickenson Bay. 268/462-3483. www.diveantigua.com) offers certification courses and day and night dives. Advantages include the central location, knowledgeable crew, satellite technology sounding the day's best dive sites, free drinks after dives, and exceptionally priced packages. Drawbacks include generally noisy groups and inconsistent maintenance (less safety than hygiene concerns) now that John doesn't personally supervise trips.

Dockyard Divers (Nelson's Dockyard, English Harbour. 268/460-1178. www.divers-haven.com), owned by British ex-merchant seaman Captain A. G. "Tony" Fincham, is one of the island's most-established outfits and offers diving and snorkeling trips, PADI courses, and dive packages with accommodations. They're geared to seasoned divers, but staff work patiently with novices.

Dive master Bryan Cunningham took over Wolf Krebs's Montserratian Sea Wolf Diving School (Falmouth Harbour. 268783-3466; 268/561-5258. www.seawolfdivingschool.com), and eventually moved it to Antigua. It offers PADI and NAUI certification; shore, night, and boat dives, including Torpedo Diver propulsion vehicles; snorkeling trips; and underwater photography classes. It's the island's only dive retail shop, guaranteeing premium state-of-the-art equipment, and the only outfit diving Barbuda. Trips are open to four divers maximum, ensuring personalized attention. Rates are quite competitive, and Bryan and wife, Tish, are particularly good with kids. The shop stocks underwater Frisbees and torpedoes, as well as specialized children's gear, and Tish entertains little ones with art classes ashore.