The skiff skims waters rippling from azure to aquamarine, colors so intense they seem almost artificial. An archipelago of islets unfolds before me. We moor off the aptly named Great Bird Island, where brown pelicans dive-bomb for tiny, sun-silvered flying fish inches from my feet as I stroll a stretch of powdered ivory sand. Later, I clamber up the rocks and look down on a flotilla of fishing boats as brightly colored as a child's finger painting. A halo of frigate birds circles overhead, unfurling their wings to a full 8-foot span. More »
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