Akatarawa Valley

Akatarawa Valley

Winding through the steep bush-clad hills north of Wellington, the narrow road to the Akatarawa Valley (in the Maori language, Akatarawa means "place of tangled vines") requires a degree of driving care, but it leads to a number of hidden gems. About 35 minutes out of Wellington on State Highway 2, turn left at the clearly marked Brown Owl turnoff north of Upper Hutt. About two minutes after the turnoff, look for Harcourt Park, where a number of scenes in the Lord of the Rings movies were filmed. Nearby, Harcourt Holiday Park (04/526-7400) has motel units, tourist cabins, and tent sites in lovely bush surroundings.

Half a mile farther on, a bridge at the junction of the Hutt and Akatarawa rivers leads into the Akatarawa Valley proper. Drive over the bridge, go past the cemetery, and then on the left, look for the Blueberry Farm (04/526-6788), where you can pick your own blueberries (January) or go for a swim in the river. Nearby Bluebank Blueberry and Emu Farm (04/526-9540) also grows delicious blueberries and raises the large flightless emus.

Continue on to Efil Doog Garden of Art (04/526-7924. www.efildoog-nz.com), where Shirley and Ernest Cosgrove tend a stunning 11-acre garden and sculpture display. They also have an art gallery exhibiting some fine early New Zealand paintings. The grounds are magnificent at rhododendron time, October-early December. The garden's open October through March, Wednesday-Sunday; entry is $12. The winding road crosses some wonderful old trestle bridges over the Akatarawa River before reaching Staglands Wildlife Reserve (04/526-7529. www.staglands.co.nz), filled with friendly animals and birds that will eat out of your hand. As you wander through these peaceful 25 acres, meet the kea, kune-kune pigs (a native variety), deer, and wallabies, and feed trout in the pools. Stop into the falcon aviary before picnicking by the river or stopping by the log-cabin café. The reserve is open daily and costs $16.

Look on the right for the tiny wooden Church of St. Andrews, then turn right almost immediately for the Reikorangi Potteries (04/293-5146). Here, Wilf and Jan Wright display local handicrafts and paintings, plus their own pottery. Wander around the small animal park to view rabbits, llamas, wallabies, and a host of different birds, or stroll along the riverbank and take a swim. If you haven't eaten yet, the café is a delightful stop. The potteries are open November through March, Tuesday-Sunday, and April through October, Wednesday-Sunday. Admission is $5. The road continues for about 3 km (2 mi to join State Highway 1 at the Waikanae traffic lights, where you can head back to Wellington; from here, you're about 45 minutes north of the city. You can get more information on the Akatarawa Valley from the Upper Hutt Information Centre (84-90 Main St., Upper Hutt. 04/527-2141. www.upperhuttcity.com).