Upper South Island and the West Coast Restaurants

In Marlborough visit a winery restaurant—there's no better way to ensure that your meal suits what you're drinking. Cloudy Bay clams are harvested here, salmon and Greenshell mussels are farmed in the Marlborough Sounds, and local crops—besides grapes—include cherries and garlic. In Kaikoura try crayfish. The region is named after this delicacy (In M?ori, kai means "food" and koura means "lobster"). Nelson is also famous for seafood, in particular scallops, and for fresh produce and, yes, for wine. On the West Coast, try the local delicacy whitebait fritters—a sort of omelet filled with the whitebait—tiny, young eel-like fish netted at river mouths as they migrate upstream in late spring.

Some restaurants in more remote tourist regions close in winter (June through August); others may curtail their hours. In summer, all doors are open and it's best to make reservations. If a restaurant is open on a major holiday, it may add a surcharge to your bill.

Year-round, the restaurants and cafés around the glaciers and other remote spots can be quick to close their doors at night. Arrive by 8:30 (it's sometimes even earlier in winter) or you might go hungry. Some of the smallest towns, including Punakaiki, settlements in the Marlborough Sounds, and parts of Golden Bay, have few cafés and no general stores, so bring your own supplies.

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  • 1. Mussel Inn

    $$$

    Swing by the Mussel Inn for a quintessential slice of Golden Bay life: music, craft beer, and darn good pub food. Locals come for the live music (most evenings in summer), mussel chowder, steamed mussels, or goat curry, washed down with house-brewed beer and ciders. A favorite is the Captain Cooker—brewed first from native manuka leaves by Captain Cook to combat scurvy on his ships.  With rough sawn timber, handmade furniture, outdoor fire pit, and a big rambling garden, it’s very much a "Kiwi woolshed meets Aussie farmhouse" feel here. 

    1259 Tākaka-Collingwood Hwy., Onekaka, Tasman, 7182, New Zealand
    03-525–9241

    Known For

    • Craft beers and ciders
    • Rustic, country ambience
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Aug., Reservations not accepted
  • 2. Courthouse Cafe

    $$

    In the lovely old former Collingwood Courthouse, on the main crossroads into town, this laid-back and popular café makes good use of local produce. Their big breakfast and eggs Benedict will set you up for a trip to the beach or Farewell Spit or Heaphy Track. Look also for the fresh muffins and panini, the pies and pizzas, and daily blackboard special. The coffee is good, too. There are indoor and outdoor tables, but it gets packed in summer.

    At Gibbs and Elizabeth Sts., Collingwood, Tasman, 7073, New Zealand
    03-524–8194

    Known For

    • Lots of gluten-free and vegan options
    • Breakfast tortillas
    • House-made pies

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 3. The Brigand

    $$$

    This bar and café is located in a lovely old house on Tākaka's main street and has a sunny courtyard, cool handmade furniture, plenty of indoor seating, and roaring fires (indoor and out) for cozy nights. The menu consistently provides New Zealand classics, from light snacks and daily specials to full dinners. The restaurant roasts and serves Tākaka's very own fair-trade, organic Tuatara coffee. There's live music several nights a week in summer, including an open-mike night every Thursday throughout the year.

    90 Commercial St., Takaka, Tasman, 7110, New Zealand
    03-525–9636

    Known For

    • Sea-run salmon
    • Nice garden
    • Sticky pork spare ribs
  • 4. Wholemeal Cafe

    $$$

    Set in the old Tākaka movie theater, this place is synonymous with the alternative feel that is Golden Bay. The breakfast and lunch menus are substantial and wholesome, or you can catch an early dinner on Friday and Saturday when they are open until 8 pm. There's plenty of room to find a table, even at the height of summer. Eat indoors or out, and you’ll be joined by all walks of the local community. 

    60 Commercial St., Takaka, Tasman, 7110, New Zealand
    03-525–9426

    Known For

    • Funky vibe
    • Amazing baked goods
    • Coffee sourced direct from high-altitude farmers in Timor Leste

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Thurs.
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