A 35-km (22-mi) protected sandbar with a 19th-century lighthouse, Farewell Spit is renowned for its tremendous seabird population. A trip with Farewell Spit Eco Tours (Tasman St., Collingwood. 03/524-8257 or 0800/808-257. www.farewellspit.com) is a must if you are in Golden Bay. Each of the two tour itineraries takes you out along the Farewell Spit; one tour will take you to a gannet colony. (The company is the only one with a DOC license to visit the gannets.) The other takes you out to the lighthouse and windswept dunes on the seaward end of the spit. Costs run between $80 and $120; reservations are essential. You could also saddle up with Cape Farewell Horse Treks (Wharariki Beach Rd., Puponga. 03/524-8031. www.horsetreksnz.com); this outfit offers some of the best horse trekking in the country, with spectacular beaches and wild views. For the best views, ride the Old Man Range trek ($120) or try the Puponga Beach ride ($60) for something more sedate.