News from the Grapevine

News from the Grapevine

New Zealand's rugged landscape leads to major differences between the grape-growing regions, even if they're small in scale. This diversity means that most of Europe's great grapes have found a second home somewhere in the country. Pinot noir in particular is benefiting as the hardier European varieties are planted at increasingly higher latitudes, especially in the Otago region. There are currently over 25,000 hectares (61,775 acres) of planted vines producing 76 million liters of wine a year.

Sauvignon blanc, particularly from Marlborough, is the country's most widely planted varietal. It's noted for tropical-fruit characters such as passion fruit and pineapple.

Chardonnay grows well all over the country. Left to its own devices, it has a citric, melonlike flavor, but wood-aging provides spiciness. It's the third-most-planted vine in New Zealand; chardonnays from the Nelson region are very good.

Riesling is a gentle variety, with a floral, lightly scented bouquet and fruity taste. Most local versions have at least a touch of sweetness. Ninety percent of the country's Rieslings are produced in the South Island.

Gewürztraminer is the most distinctive grape variety, with a superspicy bouquet reminiscent of rose petals, lychees, and spices. Many of the best Kiwi examples come from Gisborne, but a couple of exceptional versions have come out of Hawke's Bay, Marlborough, and Martinborough.

Pinot gris is an up-and-comer in New Zealand. At its best, it produces wine with delightfully grainy character and loads of honest flavor. Marlborough growers see a lot of potential in this thin-skinned variety.

Cabernet sauvignon is suited to warmer parts of New Zealand. Most years, it performs best in Hawke's Bay and on Waiheke Island. It's often blended with merlot and cabernet franc.

Merlot was first used in blends, but more and more Kiwi winemakers are bottling it on its own. It has leather-coffee-tobacco undertones often summed up as "British gentleman's club."

Pinot noir, long considered a stumbling block, has been working well for many winemakers across the country. It's often described in red-fruit terms, with notes of strawberries, cherries, and plums. Central Otago is the top region for this variety, with winemakers rushing to put more acres under vine.

Syrah is an upcoming red known as a food wine. Its complex flavors are floral and spicy with excellent texture. It's a lighter, brighter wine than some of the other reds.

Kiwi vintners don't stand on ceremony—even the ceremony of uncorking a bottle. Frustrated by faulty natural cork, an increasing number of winemakers have made the move to screw caps—so you shouldn't automatically shudder if no corkscrew is required.