The Southern Alps and Fiordland Feature
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Fiordland National Park
There is a reason Fiordland is considered a must-see destination. Prose, pixels, and paint all fail to describe Milford Sound and its surrounding beauty. You simply have to experience the place yourself.
Encompassing over a million hectares of wilderness, Fiordland is the country's biggest national park. About half a million people visit each year to see playful dolphins and rainforest-coated mountains, but most converge on Milford and Doubtful sounds, the park's stars. Don't worry—the park is massive enough to easily absorb the crowds. The scenery actually shuts them up, too: entire boatloads of visitors have been known to just hush out on the water. Sand flies and rain (along with your job, breaking news, and the rest of the world) will seem like mere details when you behold Milford Sound, with Mitre Peak rising along the coast and waterfalls tumbling into the sea. I see the falls, said one returning visitor, and everything just falls away.
BEST TIME TO GO
Spring and summer (October through April) are the best, but busiest, times to go. Still there are many opportunities to commune quietly with the park, such as kayaking, scuba diving, or hiking. If you only have time for a cruise, it is still well worth the trip.
The sounds of Fiordland see 7200mm (283 inches) of rain a year. There is so much rain there that the sea is topped by a 20-foot deep layer of fresh water.
Milford Sound mass produces waterfalls. Silver threads of spontaneous waterfalls join Bowen Falls' 520-foot drop. Torrents of rain cause lush green walls to spring leaks. Occasionally, fierce winds stop the flow and appear to push water back up the cliff faces. That's Milford's drama: lovely on nice days, spectacular on nasty days. A scenic flight will take you over Sutherland Falls, the tallest in New Zealand at 580 meters (1,903 feet).
Doubtful Sound has all of the beauty of Milford, but it's less accessible and therefore less crowded and more serene. So if Milford's too hustle-bustle for you, arrange a trip to Doubtful, which will doubtless include a stop at its gateway, Lake Manapouri, and the enormous hydro-electric power station situated there.
This little town's restaurants, shops, and lodgings make it a perfect base for your Fiordland adventures. Situated on its picturesque namesake lake, it also has an excellent cinema/wine bar, which features the locally filmed Ata Whenua: Shadowland, well worth the ticket price. A short boat ride across the lake will take you to glowworm caves; it's a two-hour drive to Milford Sound and a 20-minute bus ride to Lake Manapouri.
Sand flies may be a useful cog in the great big eco-machine, but when you (inevitably) encounter them you'll just want them—and their irritating, itchy bites—to go away. They are drawn to warmth (your body heat), dark colors (your navy or black clothing), anyone standing still or moving slowly (you trying to relax), and, well, you, no matter what you do. Arm yourself with sand fly repellent before hitting the park.
Misty Mountain Eco-Retreat is a self-contained cabin constructed with native silver beech from Doubtful Sound's sea-washed logs; wool has been used for insulation, and naturally, the owners recycle. Another eco-friendly self-accommodation cottage is Mararoa Cottage. The free range hens provide lovely eggs for guests. Owners Paul and Catherine use green cleaners and other products at the cottage, and compost and recycle all rubbish. They are involved in conservation projects such as the restoration of nearby Pomona Island, and they are happy to point you in the right direction of a hands-on conservation experience. Or you can happily relax on the porch knowing you're supporting a conservationist family by staying there. If you arrive in spring, you can bottle feed the lambs.
Best Ways to Explore
Cruise the sound
Milford and Doubtful sound cruises run all day and include scenic, nature, and overnight trips. Most of Milford's daytrips get you close to a waterfall. Kayak on Milford Sound (guided or not) to view New Zealand fur seals, penguins, and dolphins. For high seas adventure, charter a fishing trips in the Tasman Sea.
Walk the Finest Walk
New Zealand's most famous walk, the Milford Track, has been called the "Finest Walk in the World." It requires a bit of gumption and organization—and boat transport from either end—to complete the four-day track. The experience, which includes rainforest, glacial lakes, mountains, and several massive waterfalls, like Sutherland Falls (580 meters), is worth the effort. There are other wonderful walks, including the 60-km (37-mi) Kepler Track which is accessible from Te Anau. Sights along this four-day walk include the Luxmore Cave, beech forests, mountains, and rivers.
The thick layer of rainwater, pigmented by forest tannins, that sits atop the sounds' saltwater filters the sunlight and simulates deep sea darkness. And that means creatures of the deep in shallow waters. Scuba divers come here for uncommonly accessible glimpses of spiny sea dragons, sea pens, and black coral. If you don't want to suit up, visit the Milford Deep Underwater Observatory.
Drive Milford Road
Most visitors drive to the park themselves, which means traveling scenic Milford Road. There are places to stop and enjoy short walks: Mirror Lake lives up to its name on calm days, and the Avenue of the Disappearing Mountain is an optical illusion, also living up to its name. The Chasm walk (20-minute round-trip) includes a river crossing and waterfall views. Traffic in the Homer Tunnel may cause delays, but just think: it took 20 years to build!
By Water: Fiordland Expeditions arranges tours on its little boat, Tutuko, to the most inaccessible reaches of Doubtful Sound. Passengers can swim or fish along the way. Milford Sound Red Boat Cruises offers frequent daily scenic cruises on its catamarans to Milford Sound. Real Journeys runs a range of combined bus and boat trips in and around Milford and Doubtful sounds, as well as overnight cruises.
Fiordland Wilderness Experiences has kayaking day- and multiday trips on Milford and Doubtful sounds and lakes Te Anau and Manapouri. Beginners are welcome.
By Land: Guided multiday treks with Ultimate Hikes require deep pockets but provide comfortable beds and a cook. Day hikes on either the Milford or Routeburn Track are available.
By Air: Air Fiordland has a range of scenic flights on its fixed-wing aircraft to Milford and Doubtful sounds. Combined packages include cruising or kayaking. Wings and Water Te Anau Ltd uses floatplanes to take travelers to inaccessible areas of Doubtful, Dusky, and Milford sounds. Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters Ltd's Milford Sound Fantastic trip has at least two landings.
Te Anau is a 2½-hour drive from Queenstown, so rise early and spend a full day in the park.
8–10: Have breakfast in Te Anau, and stop in one of the stores or cafés to pick up a picnic lunch, snacks, and drinks. Then hit the Milford Road.
10-1:30: Give yourself three hours or so to drive to Milford Sound. Take time for plenty of scenic stops, leg stretches, the Chasm Walk, and a picnic lunch along the way.
1:30-4: In Milford Sound, there are several companies offering two-hour boat cruises that leave hourly. Choose one that includes a stop at the Milford Deep Underwater Observatory. During peak season there are many large tours coming through which fill up the boats, so booking at least two weeks in advance is highly recommended.
4-6:30: Drive back to Te Anau.
7-7:30: See Ata Whenua: Shadowland at the Fiordland Cinema. The 30-minute movie takes you through parts of Fiordland National Park you wouldn't get to see even if you had a week to spend there. While you're there, have a glass of wine and nibble on some cheese.
8: Still have lots of energy? Grab a very quick bite for dinner, and catch the last boat across the lake to explore the glowworm cave. During the summer the last boat departs at 8:15. Or, save this for tomorrow and enjoy a leisurely meal in town.
10:30: You're a champ! Find a tavern in walking distance from your pillow and reward yourself with a pint. If you're too tired, then head to your bed. As they say in these parts, "Good on ya', mate!" and sweet dreams.
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