Lake Manapouri & Doubtful Sound

Lake Manapouri & Doubtful Sound

Just 20 minutes south of Te Anau, Lake Manapouri has long had the reputation as one of New Zealand's prettiest lakes. The subject of contentious debate back in the 1970s when hydroelectricity producers wanted to raise the level of the lake and submerge the town, it is now a very down-to-earth spot that moves at a pace not easily found these days. The lake itself is unspoiled, hemmed by high mountains and studded by many bush-covered islands. Cruises run several times a day to the head of the lake, where you can join a tour of the West Arm hydro-station, deep underground. West Arm is also the departure point for those traveling on to Doubtful Sound, a stunning stretch of water, largely untouched by visitors. A connecting bus crosses you over the 2,177-foot, gradient 1:5 Wilmot Pass before dropping steeply down to sea level at Deep Arm, the head of Doubtful Sound.

Real Journeys (Pearl Harbour, Manapouri. 03/249-660 or 0800/656-502. www.realjourneys.co.nz) runs daily cruise options on Lake Manapouri, providing scenic cruises, a visit to the power station, or connections to their Doubtful Sound cruises. Costs for these tours start at $59 per person.

Fiordland Expeditions (Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound. 03/442-2996. www.fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz) offers a truly New Zealand experience on their great little boat, Tutuko. Skipper Richard Abernethy is totally at home on these waters and will take you to the most inaccessible reaches of Doubtful Sound, or out and around the coast, weather permitting (which doesn't happen often). This is the tour to do if you want to do a bit of fishing, dive some of the world-class water beneath the boat, or just soak up the scenery, of which there is plenty. Tours are run by arrangement, rather than on a set schedule, so you'll need to make a group, or join one.