Te Urewera National Park is a vast, remote region of forests and lakes straddling the Huiarau Range. The park's outstanding feature is the glorious Lake Waikaremoana ("sea of rippling waters"), a forest-girded lake with good swimming, boating, and fishing. The lake is encircled by a 50-km (31-mi) walking track; the three- to four-day walk is popular, and in the summer months the lakeside hiking huts are heavily used. For information about this route, contact the Department of Conservation Visitor Centre (06/837-3803. www.doc.govt.nz) at Aniwaniwa, on the eastern arm of Lake Waikaremoana. The visitor center is also the site of a major modern artwork, the Te Urewera triptych by New Zealand artist Colin McCahon. The painting, done in 1976, shows a partial cross shape against a dark landscape, superimposed with English and Maori words and a reference to Te Kooti. The painting generated controversy, because a Pakeha (non-Maori) artist had incorporated Maori text, and in 1997 it was stolen (or liberated, depending on your point of view) in protest, resurfacing the following year. You can pick up walking leaflets and maps and ask advice about the walks in the park, such as the one to the Aniwaniwa Falls (30 minutes round-trip) or to Lake Waikareiti (five to six hours round-trip). The motor camp on the lakeshore, not far from the visitor center, has cabins, chalets, and motel units. In summer a launch operates sightseeing and fishing trips from the motor camp. There are areas of private Maori land within the park, so be sure to stay on marked paths. Access to the park is from Wairoa, 100 km (62 mi) southwest of Gisborne down Highway 2. It's then another 63 km (39 mi) from Wairoa along Highway 38 to Lake Waikaremoana.
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