The Chatham Islands

The Chatham Islands

Although officially part of New Zealand, the Chatham Islands, 800 km (500 mi) east of the South Island, are a land apart. Locals here refer to the mainland as New Zealand, as though it were an entirely separate country. And considering the uniqueness of the terrain and culture here, it might as well be.

Bearing the full force of the open Southern Ocean, the islands are wild and weather-beaten, with a rugged beauty rarely seen anywhere else in the country. The air has a salty taste to it, the colors of the landscapes are softer and more muted, and the vegetation is stunted and gnarly. There are many unusual plants and birds to be seen -- including the very rare black robin -- and the empty beaches invite fishing and diving (although the presence of sharks makes the latter inadvisable).

Just 2 of the 10 islands are inhabited -- the main island and tiny, neighboring Pitt Island. Most residents are either farmers or fishermen, but tourism is steadily increasing here, and bringing new jobs with it. The Chathams were first settled by the Moriori, a race of Polynesian descent, about 800-1,000 years ago, although there are no full-blooded Moriori left. Maori and Europeans followed, and conflicts broke out between the separate populations throughout the 1800s. By the end of the 19th century, however, tensions had died down after the Native Land Court intervened in key disputes, and the new settlers were able to stay and establish the strong maritime culture that still prevails on the islands today.

When booking to fly to the Chathams it's imperative that you make lodging reservations in advance, as there are limited accommodations available. There are two round-trip flights a week from Christchurch. Check out www.newzealandnz.co.nz/chatham-islands for details on travel, accommodation, and activities. Allow at least four days if you really want to get a feel for the islands; you'll rarely get the chance to visit anywhere this remote. And don't forget to try the crayfish (lobsters) while you're there.