Owners Tony and Beth Astle have run this stately institution for more than a quarter century, and it still enjoys a reputation as the special-occasion spot in town. The decor is old-style stately, the service immaculate, and the food classy -- and expensive. Tony is still at the stove, and his "table menu" reads as if it were designed by a chef half his age. On his "nostalgic menu" are classics such as braised duckling with orange and Grand Marnier sauce, along with inventive dishes such as the appetizer of Bloody Mary jelly (just as it sounds: a jelly made from Bloody Mary ingredients) with prosciutto, artichokes, asparagus, and citrus-infused olive oil; or sautéed spiced watermelon, grilled scallops, and wasabi flying-fish roe topped with a lime-and-pink-peppercorn vinaigrette. The wine list is extensive and international.
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