Zeppa is Italian for "wedge," but you won't get the thin end here. Tapas-style dishes are served in this generous warehouselike space that, despite its size, is always lively. It's popular with the after-work set and on a Friday and Saturday can be packed with people either on the way home from work, or on the way out to something. Mediterranean flavors come in dishes such as the good-to-share porcini-and-Parmesan risotto balls, and espresso-cured lamb loin with
machiato dressing—served on sweet-potato salad with a New Zealand twist—but Asian influences abound. Freshly smoked salmon with a lemon glaze and added zing of wasabi caviar is delivered to your table on its individual slab of cedar, fresh from the hot plate. And the miso-cured pork on a salad of glass onion and sugar snap peas is likely to be fought over.