Zeppa is Italian for "wedge," but you won't get the thin end here. Tapas-style dishes are served in this cavernous warehouse-type space, an old powerhouse, that despite its size is always abuzz. Mediterranean flavors come in dishes such as porcini-and-Parmesan risotto balls, and espresso-cured lamb loin with machiatto dressing -- served on sweet-potato salad in a New Zealand twist -- but Asian influences abound. Freshly smoked salmon with a lemon glaze and added zing of wasabi caviar is delivered to your table on its individual slab of cedar fresh from the hot plate. And the miso-cured pork on a salad of glass onion and sugar-snap peas is inclined to be fought over.
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