A flight of dimly lighted stairs leads to a buzzing Japanese yakitori and sake bar. The oblong bar is usually jammed with film-festival types or a young arty crowd ordering cheap small plates of skewers before going out for the night. Grilled chicken, with or without cheese, and deep-fried fish are popular picks. In addition to more than 20 types of sake by the glass, you'll see large bottles of sake on the "bottle-keep" shelves—these are for people who keep their own bottle to have when they come to eat. While the price of individual items is relatively small, the bill can mount up quickly, and watch the stairs on the way out!