Instead of taking the ferry to Rangitoto, you could paddle. Ferg's Kayaks (12 Tamaki Dr. 09/529-2230. www.fergskayaks.co.nz), run by four-time Olympic gold medal winner Ian Ferguson, takes guided trips ($120) to the island twice daily, leaving at 9 and 4. The round-trip takes about five hours—two to paddle each way and one to climb the volcano. On the later trip you paddle back in the dark toward the city lights. Booking is essential.