Eating Out
French Polynesian islands have a wide variety of eateries on offer, mostly Polynesian, French, or Chinese in influence. If you can sample a hima'a—a traditional Polynesian meal of fish, pork, taro roots, and coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves and cooked for hours in a pit over hot stones—take the opportunity, as it's a real treat. Vegetarians are out of luck as far as vegetarian-specific cuisine, but they will be in paradise with a wide variety of breads and tropical fruit (vegetables themselves, though, are a rarity). The islands are also very child-friendly; although most restaurants still allow smoking, the atmosphere is welcoming for children and there are plenty of options for them to choose from. Baby food and formula are also readily available throughout the islands.
Meals & Mealtimes
Polynesians love their food, and mealtimes are traditionally large gatherings of family and friends. Most restaurants are open from 10:30 [am] to 11 [pm], although most places are closed on Sundays. Markets can also be found, opening around 6 [am], and can be a great place to find snacks, as well as a unique and cost-effective ways of feeding yourself, especially if you have cooking facilities at your accommodation. Breakfast is usually the lightest meal, and heavily French-influenced: bread with butter, jam, and fruit, and either coffee or tea. Lunch tends to be the largest meal, and often consisting of poisson cru, raw fish in coconut milk. Dinner can be large or light, depending on the individual's preference, and is usually a mixture of tropical fruit, taro root, raw or cooked fish, pork, or lamb or beef imported from New Zealand or Australia. In some of the more remote islands, you will find goat or even dog on the menu. If you stumble across turtle, remember that it's an endangered species, refuse to eat it, and make certain you tell the establishment why—it's the only way to permanently take turtle off the menu. Remember that it's okay to eat with your hands in Polynesian custom, and that, in French custom, the bill is not brought to you until you request it.
Unless otherwise noted, the restaurants listed are open daily for lunch and dinner.
Paying
Credit cards are accepted in most tourist areas, although smaller and more remote establishments are usually cash-only affairs.
Reservations & Dress
Regardless of where you are, it's a good idea to make a reservation if you can. In some places (Hong Kong, for example), it's expected. We only mention them specifically when reservations are essential (there's no other way you'll ever get a table) or when they are not accepted. For popular restaurants, book as far ahead as you can (often 30 days), and reconfirm as soon as you arrive. (Large parties should always call ahead to check the reservations policy.) We mention dress only when men are required to wear a jacket or a jacket and tie.
When dining out, dress in French Polynesia tends to be casual, tidy, and fit for the weather: loose and colorful clothing. Although you will see the occasional flowered Hawaiian shirt or flip-flops at nice restaurants, do everyone a favor and avoid the temptation: dress respectfully for your hosts, rather than donning the cabana gear. For men, a golf shirt and khakis are perfect. For women, this is the perfect excuse to wear a colorful sundress.
Wine, Beer & Spirits
What is paradise without a cold cocktail? Thankfully Polynesians are fairly lax about alcohol, and it's readily available at bars, restaurants, and supermarkets. The local beer is a brand called Hinano, which is light and refreshing, especially after a day spent in the sun. It is sold in bottles, cans, and on tap. You can find imported beers for imported prices, as well. Red and white wines, mostly imported from France, are also available. It's best to order these from restaurants and hotels that know how to treat wine, as the heat and elements can do a number on the vintage if it hasn't been properly looked after.
