Everything in Colin McLaren's Tuscan-inspired lodging has been imported from Italy: cast-iron fountains, marble fittings, 17th-century antiques, exquisite tapestries—even the retro movie posters above the bar. Each of the five villa suites is individually and sumptuously decorated to reflect its Italian name: perhaps cioccolato, rosso, or limone will suit your mood. The three Cabina suites, beside the garden pond, are slightly larger and equally luxuriant. Daily changing five-course set dinners ($$$$) with a Sicilian flavor showcase regional ingredients, especially Milawa poultry and cheeses and Ovens Valley veal and lamb. Desserts may include the delicious blue-cheese panna cotta with pear puree and walnut praline. Weekend bookings must include one dinner, at additional cost (A$75). From Bright, drive toward Porepunkah, then take the Buckland Valley Road turnoff for another 6 km (4 mi).