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Rita Macalli's stellar Italian bistro emphasizes flavor over starchy linen and stuffy attitude. Here eggplant is molded into gentle round polpettes (meatball-like mounds), lamb rump is scented with garlic and parsley and slow-roasted to impossible tenderness, and the service is as upbeat as the wine list. Delicious wood-fired pizzas are yet another reason to visit this suburban gem (thankfully, it's only a short walk from the city).
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