Fraser Island

Fraser Island

Some 200 km (124 mi) north of Brisbane, Fraser Island, at 1,014 square km (630 square mi), is both the largest of Queensland's islands and the most unusual. Originally known as K'gari to the local Butchulla Aboriginal people, the island was later named after Eliza Fraser, who in 1836 was shipwrecked here and lived with local Aborigines for several weeks. It's the world's largest sand island—instead of coral reefs and coconut palms, it has wildflower-dotted meadows, freshwater lakes, a teeming bird population, dense stands of rain forest, towering sand dunes, and sculpted, multicolor sand cliffs along its east coast. That lineup has won the island a place on UNESCO's World Heritage list. The surf fishing is legendary, and humpback whales and their calves can be seen wintering in Hervey Bay between May and September. The island also has interesting Aboriginal sites dating back more than a millennium.

Hervey Bay is the name given to the expanse of water between Fraser Island and the Queensland coast. It's also the generic name given to a conglomeration of four nearby coastal towns—Urangan, Pialba, Scarness, and Torquay—that have grown into a single settlement. This township, along with Rainbow Beach, are the main jumping-off points for most excursions. (Note that maps and road signs usually refer to individual town names, not Hervey Bay.)

You can pitch a tent anywhere you don't see a no camping sign; there are three main public campgrounds—Central Station, Dundubara, and Waddy Point—that require you to book in advance. These campgrounds have fenced sites, toilet blocks, drinking water, hot showers (some campgrounds have coin-operated showers, taking A$1 coins), gas grills, phones, and other amenities. There are also smaller designated camping areas along Fraser Island's Great Walk, and a number of established beach campsites, all run by Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service. They have toilet blocks, picnic tables, and walking trails. Most lack drinking water, so be sure to bring plenty with you. Because the entire island is a World Heritage site, permits for camping (A$4.50 per person, per night) are required and there's a maximum stay of 22 nights.

Fraser's east coast marks the intersection of two serious Australian passions: an addiction to the beach and a love affair with the motor vehicle. Unrestricted access has made this coast a giant sandbox for four-wheel-drive vehicles during busy school-holiday periods. All vehicles entering the island by car barge from the mainland must have a one-month Vehicle Access Permit (A$32.60). There are a number of places in southeast Queensland including Maryborough, Urangan, and Rainbow Beach, where you can obtain these and camping permits for the island. (If you prefer your wilderness sans dune-buggying, head for the unspoiled interior of the island.)