Kapiti Coast & Kapiti Island

Kapiti Coast & Kapiti Island

A trip up the west coast from Wellington is not to be missed if you have a car and a day to spare. State Highway 1 will take you north, and about a half hour out of the city you'll hit the coast at Paremata. From here you can follow South Highway 1 straight up the Kapiti Coast, so called for the view of Kapiti Island. Alternatively, you can take the longer -- but infinitely more scenic -- drive around the Pauatahanui Inlet and Bird Sanctuary, following the road up and along the ridge of the rugged, winding, and windy Paekakariki Hill. From here you'll have stunning views of the coastline and Kapiti Island. Both routes will take you to Paekakariki (pie-kahk-a-reeky), a small, artsy beach town.

Paekakariki's draw is the shore, but it's also the main entry point of Queen Elizabeth Park (Entrance on Wellington Rd. 04/292-8625), more than 1,000 acres of fields and sand dunes along the coast. The park has a walking trail, horseback riding, mountain biking, and a playground. A little farther up the coast on State Highway 1 is Lindale Farm (04/297-0916) which is home to Kapiti Cheeses and Ice Cream. Along with terrific locally made cheeses, you can try decadent ice cream with Kiwi flavors, such as feijoa or fig and manuka honey (manuka is a kind of tea tree). The farm is just past Paekakariki's neighboring town, Paraparaumu.

Paraparaumu is the departure point for one of Wellington's best-kept secrets: Kapiti Island (Coastlands Parade. 04/298-8195). The island has been a protected reserve since 1897 and is a fantastic place to hike. All pests have been eliminated from the island, and birdlife flourishes, including saddlebacks, stitchbirds, and colonies of little spotted and South Island brown kiwi. Don't be surprised if a curious and fearless weka investigates your daypack or unties your shoelaces. Climb to the Tuteremoana lookout point at more than 1,700 feet.

The island's most famous inhabitant was the Ngati Toa chief Te Rauparaha, who took the island by ruse in 1822. From this stronghold, he launched bloodthirsty raids before he was captured in 1846. He died in 1849, but his burial place is a mystery. Old tri-pots (used for melting down whale blubber) on the island bear testimony to the fact that Kapiti was also used as a whaling station in the late 19th century.

The Department of Conservation (DOC. 04/472-7356. www.doc.govt.nz) oversees the island and restricts visitors to just 50 a day. You'll need a permit in advance ($9). Book atleast three months in advance. Two tour companies provide transportation to the island: Kapiti Marine Charter (0800/433-779) and Kapiti Island Tours (04/472-7356). Boats leave from the beach at Paraparaumu; both companies charge $30 for the round-trip. Once on the island, you'll be taken to the DOC headquarters, where you can get trail maps. For more information about Kapiti Island, contact the Wellington Visitor Information Centre or the Paraparaumu Visitor Information Center (04/298-8195. www.naturecoast.co.nz)