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Tongariro National Park Review

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Tongariro National Park

Fodor's Review:

Tongariro is the country's first national park, established on sacred land given by the Ngati Tuwharetoa people in 1887. A trio of active volcanoes dominates the park. Tongariro, the shortest and least active, has a heavily truncated cone; Ngauruhoe, a single-vent volcano, has a distinctively smooth cone shape. Ruapehu is the tallest (and at 9,175 feet, the highest mountain on the whole North Island), with a longer, irregular snow-topped profile and a large crater lake. It's also the most active of the three. Ruapehu last erupted in 1995 and 1996, each time giving little warning before spewing forth ash and showers of rocks and unleashing lahars (the water of the crater lake churned with rock). Luckily, no one was hurt, though the eruptions occurred during ski season. Ruapehu's crater lake is filling up again, and there's a risk that another lahar will burst through the crater walls. The last time this happened, in 1953, more than 100 people were killed as the flood destroyed a railway bridge. Now local politicians are debating whether to dig a channel to drain some of the water.

Tongariro's spectacular combination of dense rimu pine forests, crater lakes, barren lava fields, and birdlife makes it the most impressive and popular of the island's national parks. It has many hiking trails, the most famous of which is the Tongariro Crossing, a 16-km (10-mi) hike that traverses the mountain, passing craters and brilliantly colored lakes, and is generally considered one of the finest walks in the country. You'll need to be reasonably fit to tackle it, because there are some steep inclines and the harsh volcanic terrain can be punishing on a hot day. Other hikes in the park range from multiday circuits to short treks of an hour or two.

Highway 1 skirts the east side of the park, but the most direct access is from Highway 47, on the north side; Highway 48, which leads to Whakapapa Village, branches off from here, about 10 km (6 mi) before the confusingly named National Park village, which sits at the junction of Highways 4 and 47, just outside the park proper. At National Park village you'll find motels, cafés, a gas station, and other services.

Whakapapa Village, on the north side of Ruapehu, is the only settlement within the national park with services and is the jump-off point for the Whakapapa ski slopes. The second ski area is Turoa, and its closest town is Ohakune, which is just beyond the southern boundary of the park -- take Highway 49, which runs between Highways 1 and 4. Although ski season is the busiest time of year, these towns keep their doors open for hikers and other travelers when the snow melts.

For displays about Tongariro National Park, and helpful hiking and skiing advice, stop off at the Whakapapa Visitor Centre. This is also the best place to buy maps and guides, including the very useful Department of Conservation park map -- essential for hikers -- and individual local-walk leaflets. If you're interested in movers and shakers, check the seismograph in the office that records the activity from the mountain. If it starts trembling, at least you'll have a head start on those stuck on the ski slopes. Whakapapa Visitor Centre, Hwy. 48, Mt. Ruapehu. 07/892-3729. www.doc.govt.nz. Daily 8-5.

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