Spellbound in Middle Earth

Spellbound in Middle Earth

Some of the most striking elements of the Lord of the Rings film trilogy weren't created by special-effects workshops or camera trickery -- they were the astonishing views of New Zealand's countryside. The stark and ominous mountains, bucolic fields, and lush forests made a powerful impression on viewers unfamiliar with New Zealand's landscapes. Although the movie sets were cleared in late 2000 after the principal photography was completed on the films, the matchless scenery alone evokes the character of Middle Earth. The film crew traveled all over the country, so there are dozens of locales that could tempt you to stop and dream awhile.

On the North Island, you can visit a handful of hobbit homes in rural Matamata (www.hobbitontours.com). The volcanic peaks and blasted terrain of Tongariro National Park provided the setting for Mordor. Tackle one of the park's walking trails to see the otherworldly hot springs, lava rocks, and craggy peaks like Ruapehu, the films' Emyn Muil. Take the spectacular Tongariro Crossing trek to pass Ngauruhoe, the volcano the hobbits Frodo and Sam braved as Mount Doom.

Wellington, the film production's home base, is also the hometown of the director, Peter Jackson. Here the orcs, trolls, and the horrible Balrog all came to life. The Mines of Moria, the hellacious bridge of Khazad-dûm, and Cirith Ungol were created by Weta Workshop and the production company Three Foot Six (named for the height of a hobbit). The Rings team won an armful of Oscars for its efforts and ever since, Weta's had its hands full with other major films, including Jackson's latest release, King Kong. All this activity has spurred local wags to dub the capital "Wellywood."

The Hutt Valley, east of Wellington, saw plenty of hobbit action. During filming a huge polystyrene castle towered over a quarry by the Western Hutt road. Unsuspecting drivers would pass by Minas Tirith and the fortress of Isengard, where the wizard Gandalf was betrayed and imprisoned. Stay on Highway 2 to reach the beautiful Kaitoke Regional Park, used for the elven city of Rivendell and a perfect place to picnic on the riverbank.

On the South Island, Highway 6 unrolls south to glacier country. Stop at Franz Josef and look for Mount Gunn, where the beacon burned. Carving through the magnificent landscape, the road leads on to Wanaka, where the ghastly ringwraiths gave chase to Arwen and Frodo.

The first sight of the White Mountains, or Remarkables, at Queenstown is breathtaking; this gorgeous region was the background for the Ithilien Camp, the giant statues of the Pillars of Argonath, and a host of other scenes. From nearby Glenorchy, you can hire a horse and ride to Paradise, seen as the elven Lothlórien forest. Farther south, near Te Anau, explore the brooding silence of the lake district. This region, shot for the Midgewater Marshes, is also prime trout-fishing territory.

Hungry for more? Then turn to the "Lord of the Rings" Location Guidebook by Ian Brodie, which tracks the films up hill and down dale.

-Bob Marriott