Every city center needs a place like this, with a drop-in bar, lively dining room, and groovy upstairs nightclub. At lunchtime, no-time-to-dawdle business types tuck into whitebait fritters, tagliolini with fresh tuna, and ricotta cake. Things get a little moodier at night, when a Campari and soda at the bar is an almost compulsory precursor to dinner.
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