Koh Tao

Koh Tao Review

Less than a decade ago, the tiny island of Koh Tao could be compared to the one inhabited by Robinson Crusoe: no electricity, no running water, no modern amenities of any kind. Today it's built up with air-conditioned huts with cable TV, tattoo parlors, discos, and a few 7-11s. Dozens of small bungalow colonies offer every level of accommodation, from ultrabasic to modern luxury. The peace and quiet has disappeared from the main beaches, but the primary reason to come here is still the underwater world. Koh Tao is an excellent place to get your scuba certification. Many operators don't have pools, so the initial dives must be done in the shallow, crystal-clear ocean water. Advanced divers will appreciate the great visibility, decent amount of coral, and exotic and plentiful marine life.

Sairee, the island's longest, most popular beach, is a crescent-shaped beach with palm trees arching over the pellucid, aquamarine water as if they are yearning to drink from the sea. Along the thin sliver of golden sand sit rustic, traditional wooden beach huts with bohemian youths lounging in hammocks; novice divers practicing in seaside pools; and European students on holiday, sipping cocktails at basic beach bars. On the far northern end of the beach a few "upscale" resorts provide urban amenities amid manicured landscapes that manage to blend in with their surroundings enough to create idyllic beach environments rather than artificial resort settings. Sairee Beach is west-facing and therefore great for watching the sun set and for kayaking to Koh Nang Yuan. Chalok Baan Kao Beach, on the southern shore, is another nice beach, which is popular with travelers of all stripes. Travelers looking for real peace and quiet head to the smaller, more isolated beaches and bays, which generally have only a few guesthouses each, a more laid-back scene, and nice snorkeling conditions directly offshore.

At high tide the three small islands of Koh Nang Yuan sit beside each other in an obtuse, triangular pattern, separated by shallow, translucent water. At low tide the receding water exposes two narrow sandbars connecting the outer islands where the bungalows are to the central island, which has a lodge, restaurant, and beach bar. The islands are privately owned by the Koh Nang Yuan Dive Resort, and all visitors who wish to set foot on the island must shell out a B100 fee. Although many visitors opt to pay, many others simply dock offshore to snorkel and dive the gorgeous waters surrounding the islands. The islands are quite close to Koh Tao; you can kayak from Sairee Beach, or hire a longtail to ferry you here (it takes about 15 minutes). The islands are quite busy throughout the day, so try to visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon. While you are visiting, take a trip up to the viewpoint on the southern island for some photos to make your friends at home jealous.