The chatter of gibbons wakes you up at this remote mountain lodge between Pai and Mae Hong Son. The cave after which it is named, just a short walk from the lodge, is one of the region's most spectacular caverns, with wall paintings and prehistoric coffins. The Australian owner of the lodge organizes treks and river tours in the surrounding jungle. Pros: the lodge's bread and pastries, cooked in its wood-fired oven. Cons: snakes lurk in the grounds; Pai is an hour's drive away.
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