The highway between Chiang Mai and Lampang runs through the mountainous Doi Khun Tan National Park, a wild upland area of great natural beauty. Since the Bangkok-Chiang Mai railroad also crosses the area, the park is run by Thailand's Royal State Railway. It has its own railroad station, an immaculately kept structure at the northern end of the country's longest railroad tunnel. A small chedi near its entrance contains the ashes of the German engineer, Emil Eisenhofer, who led construction work on tunneling through the mountain in the early years of the 20th century. When World War I broke out in 1914, Eisenhofer was repatriated, but was so taken with Thailand that he returned after the war and he and his German wife made their home in Bangkok. His last wish was for his remains-and those of his wife-to be buried at the site of his greatest professional accomplishment. Travelers regularly place floral tributes on his chedi.
The park has a small resort of six bungalows, the Khun Tan Nature Land Resort (Tambon Si Bua Ban. 053/561030). The bungalows cost B800-B3,000 per night. There's a second small resort just off the Chiang Mai-Lampang Highway, near the entrance to the park: Kuntan Viewpoint Resort (053/80222). It has 20 chalets, grouped around a small lake, each costing B500 per night. The resort's restaurant has a fascinating gallery of photographs documenting the construction of Eisenhofer's tunnel.
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